[TR] The Ortler, South Tyrol, Italy - Hintergrat (East Ridge) 7/7/2007

[mvs]

Trip: The Ortler, South Tyrol, Italy - Hintergrat (East Ridge)

 

Date: 7/7/2007

 

Trip Report:

Hi all, I thought I'd write a quick note on a really fun mountaineering/alpine climbing trip I went on Saturday. The Ortler is 3900 meters high, rising 2000 meters above the valley town of Sulden, Italy. It has significant glaciers and some nice ridge climbs. It has a > 1000 meter snow/ice climb of the north face that is very famous. It has a famous ridge called the Hintergrat, offering some exciting and exposed mid-5th class climbing in the upper 1000 feet, on terrain that is often snowy and icy. I really enjoyed this route. There is an "easy" way down a gentle glacier and then a class 5.0 ridge downclimb for 3 pitches or so. Finally a steep via ferrata, then you reach the Payer Hut for tea and strumpets.

 

I did the climb as a day trip (reasonable by NW standards as a long tough day). Here are some pictures. If you come out here in the summer or fall and want to use ice axe and crampons, this climb is really wonderful.

 

Here was the peak on my hike up:

 

A little later I saw the famous Königspitze and Monte Zebru:

 

Two people on the ridge. The route follows the whole ridge, especially the neat knife edge below the people and left:

 

A party of 5 having fun in the technical part:

 

A look back on the way down:

 

Let me know if you come visit!

ripsawridge (at sign) gmail.com

--Michael

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Rope, helmet, ice axe, crampons, a few slings and nuts.

 

Approach Notes:

nice trails, even a lift for part way if lazy. Even a hut on each end too. Jeez!

[ken4ord]

I am on my way........I wish. Looks like a great day out in dem hills. Super jealous.

 

[mvs]

Thanks Ken. One thing I haven't really found here is what I'd call a "Cascade spirit." If you go do a big climb (for an average sloth like me that is) the main thing you will hear is how risky it was or unsafe or alarming. Even the issue of skipping the hut and hiking up from the car...some folks thought I was an alarming, crazy guy for doing that. I don't know...maybe in the Cascades we just did our thing in more obscurity. Here, things are done in a certain way and deviation from the normal way seems reckless.

[ken4ord]

I think you can also find that sort of mentality in the cascades as well, take for instance the Mountaineer trip planning. Where your at though, I think it is mainly due to the laidback nature of most Europeans. Most of my friends here are Euros and it is so funny to try and talk them into a 3 hour drive to go climbing for the day. To them if they are going to drive 3 hours, then they should spend the night. Me I would rather push a hard long day, and enjoy a nice comfy bed at home, good food and beverage.

[mvs]

Yeah, exactly! I guess relaxation isn't really in my vocabulary when it comes to climbing, 90% of the time. So my plan ideas always have a very "grim" cast from a Euro point of view. But it's just a fun full day!

[treknclime]

MVS...spectacular photos! Pls post more, if you have'em!

 

Thanks for sharing! Looks like a cool route.

[jon]

Ausgezeichnet!

[kevino]

Looks beautiful. Whats the beta on the 1000 m ice/snow climb? Is it the peak on the left in the second picture?

[mvs]

Looks beautiful. Whats the beta on the 1000 m ice/snow climb? Is it the peak on the left in the second picture?

 

Actually that is a different 1000 m ice/snow climb! That is the Königspitze Nordwand. I don't have a picture of the north wall of the Ortler here, but it looks very impressive. On the Ortler, there is a long, relatively narrow couloir for the lower half, and bulges from ice falls to go around (or up?) on the upper part.

[cj001f]

Thanks for the pictures - Sudtirol is gorgeous!

 

I should have done of those Ortler traverses this spring..

[Telemack]

Neat looking mountains, much different from the Dolomite rock climbs I've done.

 

What I REALLY want to know, though, is the location of the hut that serves the "strumpets"!