StreetBoss Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 (edited) Trip: Forbidden Peak - East Ridge Direct Date: 7/7/2007 Trip Report: I worked late until nearly midnight on Friday nght when we were supppose to drive to the trailhead for the Direct East Ridge of Forbidden. But I caught some sleep on my partners couch so we didn't gt out of Seattle until Saturday morning. We grabbed the last available site at Boston Basin (hehehehehe) because of all the West Ridgers. (we must have seen 10 parties up that route) We hiked up to an awesome bivy site and slepy under a stary night but awoke to chily white out foggy conditions. WTF? So after some coffee we went up to the base of the first gendarme. Now the guide book, and a few other folks I talked with said to go around the first gendarme. WTF? go around - what is this tittelly winks? We went up and rapped the first gendarme. Good fun, introduced us to the kind of exposure and great climbing we'd enjoy the rest of the day! The next few pitches follow up and over a few gendarmes looking directly down the Boston Glacier and the East ledges. Fabulous exposed route that just kept going. We tried to take advantage of full rope lengths, however the down climbing and the slight windy/foggy weather forced us to shorten the pitches which helped us to make quick progress. After what we thought was the "crux" pitch, we took a direct line over a gendarme somwhere in the middle and found the climbing mid 5.10, well protected and fabuously wild! When we hit the summit we saw our first humans in a couple of days! The West Ridgers were turning around to down climb but we shot down the East Ledges. Five raps and some third class scrambling and we were at our posh bivy in 1 1/2 hours! wahoo A quick cup of fresh coffee while we packed up and out to the car in a fwe hours. Too late for the better restaurants, we settled for awesome cleaveage, a Philly cheese steak and a blackberry shake at Good Food! Good times. Go for it Gear Notes: (1) 60m 9.4mm rope 4 cams - yellow metulios to 2" (1) set nuts Approach Notes: Add 2 1/2 miles to the trailhead. The road is washed out past the Eldo parking. Bivy high! Edited July 12, 2007 by Off_White Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 we settled for awesome cleaveage, a Philly cheese steak and a blackberry shake That's what I'm talking about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Wow, you guys slept way up there. Great route, eh? I edited your post to make the photos show up, hope you don't mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spicoli11 Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Looks like fun. I've been in new jersey for a week and need me some north cascade heal'in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetBoss Posted July 12, 2007 Author Share Posted July 12, 2007 Thanks OFF!! I didn't know how to do that. :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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