[TR] Mount Hood South - Old Chute 7/1/2007

[nigeljmcclung]

Trip: Mount Hood South - Old Chute

 

Date: 7/1/2007

 

Trip Report:

Low winds, very reasonable temps and a "partly sunny" weekend provided for an excellent ascent of Hood via the Old Chute.

 

After an uneventful day of travelling from the greater Seattle area, we arrived at Timberline to find the climber's hut bathroom in the most disagreeable of conditions (mudbutt to the max!). Unfortunately, an absence of blue bags only caused more problems to foment and as a result of this, I urge you to make your "excretory plans" in advance.

 

Ben, Chuck, Tom, my father and I settled down at the gravel parking lot east of Timberline and ate some food, lounged around and made jokes about the "mountain fairies" (a.k.a the French). Just to avert any arguments concerning our criticism of French mountaineering, I am not anti-French.

 

From the parking lot:

 

At 12:15 AM we awoke from a somewhat disturbed nap (thanks to loud tourists and climbing partner "Tom the Fumarole's" constant flatulence)and ate breakfast, applied zinc oxide to face (giving me a horrible case of the Tyrone Biggums lips)and took off about an hour or so later. We proceeded up the ski area underneath the Palmer ski lift and enjoyed a beautiful full moon.

 

Upon reaching 8500', it became evident that the weather was truly mild and that our summit bid would most likely be successful. There were few clouds, winds perhaps as high as 10 mph and of course...the full moon that rendered our headlamps useless.

 

Full Moon:

 

Above the ski area the snow was fairly soft, yet not sugary and our crampons and ice axes found sufficient purchase in the snow. Suncups had been forming at a few places below Crater Rock, but for the most part snow conditions were optimum.

 

After breaking briefly above the ski area, we quickly ascended the last portion to the Hogsback where the smell of the fumaroles was quite frankly overwhelming. It was here that we roped up and continued towards the headwall and the chute. In spite of high freezing levels, icefall was not too bad. Although at times ice showers would hinder progress on the chute, prolonging our ascent.

 

Roping up just below the Hogsback:

 

Although the chute was crowded, we found things to be fairly comfortable, provided that you have some modicum of knowledge concerning mountaineering technique. However, the chute deadends at a dropoff to the north that can bottleneck climbers and increase congestion on the route. I was surprised at how abruptly the chute ended (keep that in mind)although fortunately we arrived at that summit ridge without running into any descending parties.

 

At the bottom of the headwall:

 

After crossing the narrow summit ridge to the true summit, we were rewarded by views of Rainier and Adams for only a few moments until we got socked in.

 

Summit picture (Ben, me and Tom):

 

The remainder of our trip was fairly uneventful, there was some enjoyable glissading until the ski area and of course, some delicious food awaiting us at home.

 

The route was in fairly good condition, although ice is calving off of the cliffs above the chute all the time I don't think the route will pleasant after mid-July. But, who knows!

 

Gear Notes:

Helmet, ice axe, crampons, rope and pickets (not necessary)

 

Approach Notes:

Nothing unusual, just follow boot paths up to the right side of Crater Rock

[kevbone]

Great pictures.....man I really need to climb Hood.

[ClimbingAbe]

Earlier in the season I'd heard that because of the shift in the hogsback, the was a 10-15' vertical wall that needed to be climbed in the chute. Any sign of that? And how about the bergshrund? Has that opened up?

[studklimer]

I just went a couple weekends ago. There is a steep, albeit not vertical, 10-15 ft. section below the ridge. right now, you have to follow an easy, although exposed, ridge to the summit on loos rock. the 10-15 section was not icy, although we were late in the day getting up (12:00 or 1 in the afternoon). I imagine it would be somewhat hard in the early morning, but nothing a single mountaineering axe can't handle.

[icedancer1]

I just went a couple weekends ago. There is a steep, albeit not vertical, 10-15 ft. section below the ridge. right now, you have to follow an easy, although exposed, ridge to the summit on loos rock. the 10-15 section was not icy...

 

That route is the Old Chute, not the Pearly Gates.

 

Earlier in the season I'd heard that because of the shift in the hogsback, the was a 10-15' vertical wall that needed to be climbed in the chute. Any sign of that? And how about the bergshrund? Has that opened up?

 

ClimbAbe, it was the Pearly Gates that had the section of water ice. The bergshrund is wide open. But more importantly, the right "chute" of the Pearly Gates appears to be devoid of snow and the left one is likely only rock and dirt now too. The only way people have been climbing this summer is the Old Chute, as described by studklimer. The mountain is now in late-season conditions. Amazing what a string of 100-degree days can do (photo from nearly two weeks ago).

 

 

Go find some good rock and come back to Hood next spring!