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icedancer1

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  1. That route is the Old Chute, not the Pearly Gates. ClimbAbe, it was the Pearly Gates that had the section of water ice. The bergshrund is wide open. But more importantly, the right "chute" of the Pearly Gates appears to be devoid of snow and the left one is likely only rock and dirt now too. The only way people have been climbing this summer is the Old Chute, as described by studklimer. The mountain is now in late-season conditions. Amazing what a string of 100-degree days can do (photo from nearly two weeks ago). Go find some good rock and come back to Hood next spring!
  2. I agree that going HIGH is the way to go . On 6/18, about 2 days after the road was fully open AND prior to the FS posting about the Eliot being impassable at the trail, we climbed Sunshine and skiied Snow Dome and the bowls down to the trail. We scoped it out pretty well, establishing that UP was faster and safer than DOWN. You'd have to drop pretty far and then re-gain elevation. Since you have to get high anyway past the east moraine, for a circumnav, all you cut off is the trailhead. Recommended only for those comfortable on steep, loose rock/dirt (take low gaiters!): The Eliot crossing can be made by descending steep rock and dirt off the west moraine at ~7200', just above the location where the trail from the east moraine descends to the glacier. From the Timberline Trail, ascend the trail along the west moraine and stay on the morainal ridge to reach this point. Then cross the debris-covered part of the glacier (minimal crevasse danger here, watch for ice) over to the trail. Then up the trail to the large cairn. I think this is a few hundred feet above the Cooper Spur stone shelter. Traverse south a few gullies to gain the Timberline trail. Don't tread on the vegetation! p.s. Any of the garbage picked up look like it was less than a year old and from NY or TX? PM me, unless you've already been asked.
  3. By 10am, the clouds above the summit had been drawn into a lenticular. This was taken just before. Don't think anyone was still hanging out up there. Mt Hood has seen significant melt out in the last few weeks.
  4. The climbers started out in the correct couloir. Anyone who has been up around the hourglass knows that a right turn there leads into more difficult terrain. If there has to be a common route-finding error in Leuthold's, this is probably it. In good weather, climbers get through it. In poor weather, they often get stuck. The Oregonian today (which still contains many errors) has a quote from the climbers that "we took some wrong turns." They tried to find an exit once off-route, which many climbers do before calling it off. Not finding one, they descended the left side of the Reid into a whiteout and became disoriented. With weather coming in, the decision to turn around could have been made earlier. Maybe hindsight 20/20. Errors in navigation, mountain familiarity, underestimating weather still hold. I don't think they blindly stumbled into the couloir. It's a reasonable objective and should be more intermediate than jumping on the Reid or Sandy HW. Still, there were at least 4 other parties ascending the same route so it's hard to say how they took a wrong turn. I suggest starting a new thread on this and including constructive requests. This area is planned for an update soon and comments will be taken. UTM coordinates, compass bearings, etc. Agreed that Mt Hood is receiving an unbalanced amount of media attention lately. That said, if the search/rescue is relatively short and uneventful, as this one was, the media reporting does not last long enough to get the facts straight. If we don't want the media swarming, then we accept some errors.
  5. No dupe here. There are always inconsistencies in media reports. There's no hotline to call for directions. PMR has performed numerous "virtual" rescues over the years by providing UTM coordinates or compass bearings. When possible, it gets uninjured climbers on the move immediately, faster than waiting for rescuers to reach them.
  6. Use caution with tracklogs. They're useful but have limitations. If the uncertainty in GPS coordinates is very large, the tracklog may provide poor data. Vertical accuracy is not good and headwalls may block satellites from half the sky. In addition, if you descend a different way than ascended, tracklogs can be of minimal help. Good to log several waypoints along the way too.
  7. Agreed. I think it can be assumed they learned a lesson here. They called for help and activated their Mountain Locator Unit (MLU). Activation implies a request for assistance ("this is where I am"), if it's already known you need help. Unlike a PLB (personal locator beacon), which provides GPS coordinates to a satellite, the MLU requires a receiver to find the subjects, much like an avalanche beacon, though very different in how it works. The MLU makes it possible to pinpoint a location if it's stationary, or to assess the direction in which it is moving. Again, correction from past media reports, an MLU does not activate a rescue. A phone call from the climbers or a contact activates it, among other ways. If an MLU signal is then picked up, rescuers know that the climbers need help. Remember, MLU's are old technology and have limitations. Also, if you've activated the MLU, then found your way, then your cell phone dies, there's no way to tell rescuers - so you keep on walking until you can. That's what leads to an overlap.
  8. First, Mt Hood does not need a ranger to check that everyone is qualified to climb it. How quickly is forgotten the mis-guided bill requiring MLU's above some elevation on Mt Hood. People just under-estimate the mountain. Trying to climb a non-South Side route within a small window of time before a forecasted weather system moves in (~24 hrs) provides little margin for error. This is one of the most common reasons, if not #1, that people are getting into trouble on Mt Hood lately. Then, many of these climbers have a GPS, which is essential for navigating in a whiteout. So what if you've only put a few South Side waypoints into the GPS? Not a big deal if you can locate yourself on a map in bad weather using your GPS. Make it easy - have the UTM on the map. That is another error people often make - having a GPS and map and not being able to use them together. The South Side makes a great place to practice with UTM and GPS and traveling in whiteouts - just plan to do it before you're forced to. Now finally, correction from the news reports, because this thread has really strayed by assuming these climbers were at 9800' on the South Side. The climbers were at 9800' on Leuthold/Reid. They received coordinates from the rescuers for Illumination Saddle, and had their own waypoint for Timberline. Rescuers ascended to guide them down but before reaching them, they were able to walk out. Kudos to these climbers for keeping it together during their downclimb. The outcome could have been much different.
  9. The picture sure looks like a climb called Bent Screw. No way it that Multanomah Falls. MJ Basecamp
  10. Some info here... http://www.kgw.com/news-usworld/stories/kgw_0120_nation_avalanche_deaths.41551f83.html
  11. I've been using the Lowe Alpine Attack 50 for 4 years and love it. It's 3100 cu. in., has a built-in crampon pouch, gear slings, hydration pocket, bivy pad, not too heavy. It's very functional without too many extras. It has two strong loops at the hip that can be used for tool holsters or better, clipping cams or other heavy pro to. Fits my 15 deg sleeping bag so it's my most used pack. Recommend it.
  12. quote: Originally posted by icegirl: isn't he some country singer... Or another female climber who used to have a strong attraction to frozen waterfalls and other steep forms of ice and would jump on any opportunity to climb them. One might say a 'near fatal' attraction. Or an unstable frame of mind. climb ice. be safe. have fun. and have luck on your side if the undesired happens. oh, I am looking for women to climb/tele with. If you're into winter mountaineering, send a private email. cheers michaeljosephnozel. happy climbing to you. -icedancer1
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