nigeljmcclung

haha agreed. It's funny to see major players from both the Monetarist and Post-Keynesian camp pointing to national decriminalization/legalization as a potential recessionary tool in this crisis.

Wow! Thanks so much for the replies, I don't even know where to begin! I will focus on developing necessary skills to climb cracks successfully. Maybe I will stop by UW's gym once or twice to simulate that. I really appreciate the advice, I hope it helps me in my pursuit to develop Alpine rock skills.

Hello, I have done a fair amount of mountaineering over the past few years and am just now getting into technical rock climbing. Last week I visited Vertical World and pretty much wasted myself on some 5.9 and 5.10 routes (really, I was only able to get a few pitches in before my hands were very sore). I was wondering if someone with experience in Alpine rock can describe the differences between Alpine rock and gym rock climbing. The alpine rocks routes I will be doing with the Mountaineers are really only up to 5.6, but is 5.6 in the mountains more difficult than 5.6 in the gym? etc. Thank you and your advice will be much appreciated.

Hello all, As the focus of my high school commencement project, I am taking a Wilderness First Responder course in mid-December. I was wondering if anyone with some modicum of WFR experience may be interested in mentoring me. As mentor you will be responsible for meeting with me a few times and "discussing" WFR stuff. I can give more details to anyone who may be interested. I appreciate your attention and hope that someone here may be willing to help me out! Thanks! Nigel McClung nigelmcclung@yahoo.com

Thanks for the help and thank you FSSmythe for the Star Wars bulletin.

I'm interested in attempting Stuart via the Cascadian Couloir October 12-13 and haven't been able to find too much information on current conditions/recent trip reports. Does anyone know anything or have any info/stories they'd like to share with me about attempting Stuart this late in the season (besides obvious inherent risks). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Trip: Mount Hood South - Old Chute Date: 7/1/2007 Trip Report: Low winds, very reasonable temps and a "partly sunny" weekend provided for an excellent ascent of Hood via the Old Chute. After an uneventful day of travelling from the greater Seattle area, we arrived at Timberline to find the climber's hut bathroom in the most disagreeable of conditions (mudbutt to the max!). Unfortunately, an absence of blue bags only caused more problems to foment and as a result of this, I urge you to make your "excretory plans" in advance. Ben, Chuck, Tom, my father and I settled down at the gravel parking lot east of Timberline and ate some food, lounged around and made jokes about the "mountain fairies" (a.k.a the French). Just to avert any arguments concerning our criticism of French mountaineering, I am not anti-French. From the parking lot: At 12:15 AM we awoke from a somewhat disturbed nap (thanks to loud tourists and climbing partner "Tom the Fumarole's" constant flatulence)and ate breakfast, applied zinc oxide to face (giving me a horrible case of the Tyrone Biggums lips)and took off about an hour or so later. We proceeded up the ski area underneath the Palmer ski lift and enjoyed a beautiful full moon. Upon reaching 8500', it became evident that the weather was truly mild and that our summit bid would most likely be successful. There were few clouds, winds perhaps as high as 10 mph and of course...the full moon that rendered our headlamps useless. Full Moon: Above the ski area the snow was fairly soft, yet not sugary and our crampons and ice axes found sufficient purchase in the snow. Suncups had been forming at a few places below Crater Rock, but for the most part snow conditions were optimum. After breaking briefly above the ski area, we quickly ascended the last portion to the Hogsback where the smell of the fumaroles was quite frankly overwhelming. It was here that we roped up and continued towards the headwall and the chute. In spite of high freezing levels, icefall was not too bad. Although at times ice showers would hinder progress on the chute, prolonging our ascent. Roping up just below the Hogsback: Although the chute was crowded, we found things to be fairly comfortable, provided that you have some modicum of knowledge concerning mountaineering technique. However, the chute deadends at a dropoff to the north that can bottleneck climbers and increase congestion on the route. I was surprised at how abruptly the chute ended (keep that in mind)although fortunately we arrived at that summit ridge without running into any descending parties. At the bottom of the headwall: After crossing the narrow summit ridge to the true summit, we were rewarded by views of Rainier and Adams for only a few moments until we got socked in. Summit picture (Ben, me and Tom): The remainder of our trip was fairly uneventful, there was some enjoyable glissading until the ski area and of course, some delicious food awaiting us at home. The route was in fairly good condition, although ice is calving off of the cliffs above the chute all the time I don't think the route will pleasant after mid-July. But, who knows! Gear Notes: Helmet, ice axe, crampons, rope and pickets (not necessary) Approach Notes: Nothing unusual, just follow boot paths up to the right side of Crater Rock

Wow, thank you for the help and the photo. Now, for those of you that have climbed either the Old Chute of PG, do either routes truly require a tool or are climbers able to ascend safely with just one axe? Thanks. -Nigel

I understand that the Pearly Gates had been blocked by a "15-50 foot vertical step." Can any one verify the height of the step and/or give a rough comparison between the Old Chute and Pearly Gates in terms of technical difficulty, added distance, exposure, angle of incline and so on? Furthermore, does anyone know if this step is going to melt off by late May/early June. I have heard that the FS predicts it will disappear by May, can anyone verify this? Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks! -Nigel

Can anybody give me a rough comparison between the Old Chute variation and the Pearly Gates in terms of added distance, technical difficulty, exposure and so on? Any help would be greatly appreciated.