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Posted (edited)

Anyone know of any crags in the san juan islands? I realized this isn't climber's heaven, but I'm going to be moving back out there, and would like a place to get outside. (I lived out there a few years ago, but didn't climb then.) I'm not interested in pissing off any locals, just getting in some climbing.

Edited by woodchips
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Posted

That's gonna be quite a haul to get to the mainland "often" from Waldron (from your other thread) I've seen some pics of some walls taken from the water of Waldron. looks promising. Access is prolly the issue. There's a worthy crag on Lopez. Gotta boat?!

Posted

I think the climbing on Waldron's a no-go, unfortunatley. They locals are pretty protective (They've been known to shoot flares at passing tourist boats, among other things), and most of Point Disney (the obvious sandstone cliffs on the SE corner) is owned by the Nature Conservancy and not open to the public. Getting to lopez isn't a big deal (I've got lots of friends w/ boats, which may be better than having my own) and I'll likely get a kayak this summer. Any details on the crag on Lopez?

Posted

Well, the Lopez crag is just like Erie only undeveloped and slated to stay that way as it is under the auspices of the BLM as one of their ACEC (Area of Critical Environmental Concern)basically their Wilderness designation.

 

There are some boulders, cracks and all of the cliffs are somewhat top ropeable. We climb there but don't expect bolts and permanent anchors. The view is great but bring your helmet.

Posted

I lived on Waldron for four years and still spend 3 days a week there. Don't climb at Point Disney, it's a no go and on Nature Conservancy land. But great tree climbing to be had. In fact, that's my work.

 

Off White- Go easy on Waldron. That place is gorgeous.

 

 

Posted

The San Juans are mostly moss and choss. Best climbed in mid winter. But you must learn the proper Jedi technique for placeing tools in verticle tundra.

 

Billy we never did hook up for that frozen moss climb. Gunna have to try next time around. I'm down for some summer choss grovelin though when I get back (July 1)

Posted

Off White- Go easy on Waldron. That place is gorgeous.

 

The subtext you're missing is that Woodchips is actually my best carpenter, project lead, and an all around good guy. Everyone in my construction company is going to miss him when he moves.

 

 

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