The ultimate Approach /Alpine/Ice Boots

[IceIceBaby]

I have a serious debate between Trango Ice, Trango extreme, and Salomon Pro iceIs anyone had/has en experience with the above I need a great all-round Alpine and ice boots that can make reasonably comfortable approach shoe with great agility for French technique and awesome feel as an Ice boot Any recommendations??

[ 01-09-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

[fishstick]

Eliminate the Trango Extreme from your list. I find that although they allow great ankle flexibility, they lack support for in some situations such as down-climbing ice facing outwards or jumping shrunds. The latter gives that "ankles away" feeling. The Extremes are also so stiff that they are a compromise on rock. Finally, if using them in the alpine, replace the sole. They have very little tread and a small heel block.

Hope that helps.

GB

[Cpt.Caveman]

I used the Trango Ice twice this season for waterfall ice climbing.

Very very good boot in my opinion. Although I have not worn them in temperatures below 10 degrees F.

Super flex for approaches and just stiff enough on the sole for vertical ice.

French technique would be easy done in them. I just might get me a set. I demoed mine from http://ProMountainSports.com I think they had size 43 for demo.

[willstrickland]

That's an interesting take on it. The Trango Ice would have the same issues since it's basically a replacement/update to the extreme. I gotta wonder though, how often do you find yourself jumping huge gaps and would you rather have ankle flex in that case, or a stiff ankle that would transfer the stress to your knee...think of landing after a big gap jump in a pair of regular stiff leathers, your weight carries your body forward over your feet, and the ankle stays stiff...this to me means a big chance of tweaking your knees or hamstrings. Then again, I'm fortunate to have pretty flexible ankles, I typically hike in trail runners.

I'd also think that downclimbing ice facing out you'd really want that ankle flex so you could turn a bit to one side and french down it or at least lean back a little and get more than your rearmost points in contact. As far as climbing rock in them, any of those boots will climb rock better than a std pair of leathers or plastics. It actually looks like the Extremes are a little lighter than the Ice. I've never seen the Salomons

[Cpt.Caveman]

I have never worn the other Trangos just the Ice one. So I cannot base my decision comparing the other boots.

[fishstick]

Will,

Your points are noted on the gap-jumping thing. Where I actually had the problem was jumping between seracs while bouldering; I do that a lot. Down climbing ice was encountered on similar terrain as well as on bigger slopes. Ankle flexibility to a degree is a good thing, but when you're headed down an ice slope while very fatigued, more support than Trango E's is appreciated. Same while carrying a big pack on wet, lichen covered rock.

As far as your comments on rock are concerned, I disagree. From my own perspective (biased) I prefer a boot to flex slightly on rock. A quick layback up a vertical corner illustrates why; I want more than 1mm of contact. I've tried a pile of boots in the mountains over the last four or five years and find my own Trangos to be among my least favorite. The old K3 in my mind was superior in almost every way. Granted however, that there are others who climb rock vastly better than myself prefer super stiff boots.

GB

[bellemontagne]

I tried on a pair of Salomon Super Mountain 9's (last year's model. They're a little different from the Super Mountain 9 - Snow and Ice. They fit great, and weren't too bad to walk in. I bought the Super Mountain 8's - the Super Mountain 9's were more boot than I needed. They felt great though. I would definitely try them on if you get a chance.

Tyler

[jon]

I've asked about this boot before, but has anyone tried or owns the La Sportiva Lhotse? I tried some on at Mountain Gear in Spovegas and they feel pretty damn sweet?