[TR] Mt. Hood - Leuthold Couloir 4/26/2007

[Ptown_Climber1]

Trip: Mt. Hood - Leuthold Couloir

 

Date: 4/26/2007

 

Trip Report:

Well almost two months later than hoped, and with a whittled down group of three die-hard, masochistic freaks, Mt. Hood was summited yesterday at approximately 2 PM- a mere 11 and a half hours after they embarked from Timberline. Let's cut to the chase here. This one was all about pain folks, in its purest form. What we had originally intended to be a two day climb was squeezed into one.

 

And while temperatures hovered in the twenties, with a clear starry night above, the snow wasn't well consolidated, making for a post-hole nightmare that I or my legs won't soon forget. This commenced immediately after we left the groomed climbers' trail at the top of Palmer and headed for the saddle. After roping up at the saddle we began what I will always remember as the traverse from hell. Crossing the Reid Glacier and ascending the couloir while postholing to the knees for seemingly interminable hours made us all wonder, "Why the f*ck to do we do this to ourselves?" (Suffice it to say, we were treated to no boot paths until we would meet the south side route on the summit ridge....one step up....one step down...)

 

But soon thereafter our age old question was answered as we entered the heavens gate-ish, rime encrusted walls of the hourglass and the Leuthold Couloir and were reminded of what we already knew-mountains are temples of nature....the couloir is essentially 2000 feet of straight up, calf busting hell, but the flip-side is that it's a feast for any mountaineer's eyes. You just don't see that on the typical day in the trenches of everyday life. No Iraq war, no George Dubya, no Wal-Marts and strip malls, no American Idol....sorry, I digress. Anyhow, I was also pleasantly surprised with the good condition of the route through the hourglass. The snow firmed up nicely through it, allowing for a nice break from the post-holing we'd become accustomed to below.

 

After what seemed another eternity, we topped out of the couloir, only to see another 700 foot snow dome goliath glaring down at us with not too different of an expression as the one Sebastian was giving me as I plunged onward, the rope tugging him along.

 

And then.....the summit ridge. Words won't do it justice; pictures will try to, but you just gotta see it....Hmm, 1000 ft. drop to the left, 900 ft slalom ride into the Devil's Kitchen on the right....don't want to pick either of those poisons, thank you...we'll place a couple pickets (one apparently in a cornice.....sorry Dean!) and nervously cross this final obstacle.

 

Summit was, well the summit....always outstanding, but tainted with the thought in the back of your mind.....'now we have to get down'. We descended the old chute since Pearly Gates reportedly offer 70 degree ice in parts, and well, we weren't looking for that type of fun at this point!....The Old Chute was slow going though on soft slippery snow....we were reduced to down climbing substantial parts of it. When we finally traversed over to hogsback, the sulphur fumes that greeted us made even that respite an uncomfortable, and for some of us, a noxious one.

 

By almost 6 PM we made it back to the lodge, now transformed into hobbling old men.....we couldn't get the server to get us that pitcher of IPA fast enough. Much delirious, non-sensical conversation was had as we gawked back up at old Hood.....I posed the question of how much money it would take for us all to turn tail and head directly back up the mountain all over again. Scoffed at the notion, we did, but we all knew that in the back of our minds, a plan for a return visit was already in its infancy...what do you say guys, Wy 'East next time? Maybe Sunshine Route? Cooper Spur? I can't wait.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

rope, pickets, one ice axe, although two might of come in handy at points in the couloir.....not necessary though.

[NShighlander]

I would just like to add a comment about this trip, for as calf bustin and mind numbing this climb was, it was also the most rewarding and awe inspiring sights I have ever seen.

 

It's impossible to come away from this without looking at Hoodin a new light now!

 

Kris great job leading, since the conditions were not ideal and several tricky decisions were needed to be made in choosing our route!

 

All in all, a great day, even if two days later, my legs are still trying to remind me of the pain and torture we went through!

 

here are a few more photos

 

[ivan]

congrats - if you dug that one then go back and do the reid headwall, it's better!

[Ptown_Climber1]

Yeah, that's what I hear....I've had my eye on Reid Headwall the last couple seasons, but want to climb it with someone who's done it before....I was trying to follow it the other day, but couldn't quite see the line of ascent.

[glm]

Great job, and GREAT pictures! The one with the front points sticking out conveys the angle really well - it's often really hard go show in a picture how steep a slope is. Makes me want to be there, burning calves and all.

[puckerhuddle]

Hi - we're planning on climbing the standard south route next weekend if weather cooperates. Any comments on the condition of the standard south climb (I believe same as old chute).

 

thx

[iceslut]

This weekend saw some traffic so the boot pack up the hogsback is well established. The old chute was softening up pretty good in the late morning. All this, of course, could vary significantly depending on the weather this week. If you take the pearly gates, each variation has some water ice that slowed folks down quite a bit.

 

Hope the weather turns in your favor.