Mt Adams Mazama Glacier

[needtoclimb]

I am looking at doing this route in Mid June and am looking for beta from people who have climbed it. Is the glacier heavily crevassed...meaning is a rope needed on it? Also, any info on roads to Cold Springs or the trailhead in the Yakima Reservation would be much appreciated.

[jhamaker]

Went once in, what, November? It was late season before snow. Very few crevasses - but that was then.

Went in from the Cold Sp trail wich should be mostly melted out to the parking lot by mid/late june.

 

Contact the Yakimas for gate openings on the res.

[Ptown_Climber1]

I've climbed it twice, most recently last early July....be prepared to traverse over to the route from Cold Springs, as road into Bird Creek won't likely be open.Good news is that you'll likely have Sunrise Camp to yourself..... I can also tell you that Mazama is heavily crevassed.....I have some great pictures to prove it....I climbed it in September of 2001 and it was almost impassable due to a maze of large crevasses.....there was a pretty dicey snow bridge we had to cross at one point....now last July it was mostly filled in, and it was pretty much a walk up. We still roped up however, as there were a few opening up even then, and I can tell you that when you've seen them in late season, it sort of reminds you to take that extra precaution.

 

It's a real nice climb though.....have fun!

[Greta]

For future reference, such threads belong in the south wa cascades forum. We like to keep things tidy here.