Does this rock have a name?

[spotly]

It's a mile or so away from (and visible from) the Two Mouth Lake TH. Anyone know if it has a name? Any developed routes? Looks kinda yummy.

Edited April 21, 2007 by spotly

[mccallboater]

I always called it Two Mouth Dome. So did my Dad, who climbed up it on the easy right side in 1937. So I guess that's what it's called. I climbed it from the top of the tree "V" on the left in the late 1970's. Slabby and fun. Not too hard. I wish I could add more info about other ascents, but most N ID folks keep pretty quiet about those things.

[pindude]

Man, mccallboater, you've climbed and skied everything! I'd hate to ask what you've boated.

 

I've only looked at this coming and going from a couple other points in the area. Oh yeah, never mind...there's no climbing in North Idaho, none at all.

[pu]

I have a couple unfinished lines on the next one up the valley to the north on your way into Two Mouth. It has better pro and is a little steeper. Apparantly Jim Langdon did a line on it in the 70's.

 

 

[spotly]

The dome does look fairly low angle when viewed from further up the trail. There's a few lines on it that look worth hiking up to though - preferably before all the snow is gone from that brushy looking approach. I did notice some nice rock up that valley towards the lake that seemed worth checking out too. How was the rock quality where you were working?

[pindude]

The dome is called Myrtle's Turtle. I (McCallboater writing from Pindude's house) was up on top this morning. Fun. Mostly 4th class on the left hand side. I scrambled up from Two Mouth Lake in about an hour. Go straight E from the lake up the 3rd class slabs and short stretches of slide alder. Pics to come later.

[spotly]

Did you go up the left side as seen in the picture or are you talking about from the lake? Looks like there's a possible line right up the center (just right of the snow patch) that looks stiffer than 4th class? Hard to say from that shot though. I never did make it up there...yet. Looks like a spring trip.

[mccallboater]

Not a spring trip. Best right now, since Two Mouth Lakes is known as the epicenter of all bugdom. It's so dry right now that there are just a few bugs to deal with. I came up from the lake behind the Turtle. I must stress the top is a very neat place to be. All granite polish and alpine fir fairy rings.

 

There is a possible line right up the center as you inferred. Dan Krumpotich put up a line there years ago I believe. The pro looks marginal, with all downsloping holds, but not too steep. It might be quicker to hike the 6 miles to the lake and go up to the top from the lake, then downclimb the 4th class on the left, than to force your way up the slide alder in the avalanche chute from the road. Of course, you will pass other temptations on the way there.

[drater]

McCallBoater, got any stories/pix/beta on the Lionhead?

[mccallboater]

None worth mentioning here. But the new book

 

http://www.keokeebooks.com/ClimbersGuide.html

 

should have something. My wanderings up there have been without climbing partners, unfortunately. Nice stone though.

[drater]

They keep pushing the publication date back on that gig, starting to wonder if it's ever gonna go off. Guess I should call Bessler and ask him directly.

 

Nice stone indeed.

[spotly]

I was hoping to pick one up on my drive through there today but the publisher said it's running a few days late. She expects it Friday (tomorrow) and will be shipping a bunch out to Mountain Gear in Spokane. Sounds like Monday or Tuesday for Spokane then.

[drater]

I'll ride my bike down there tomorrow and check it out if I remember. Should be cool.

[drater]

Vandeforde's has 3 copies left as of 4pm today.

 

It's amazing, really well written and tons of info, sure to piss off lots of old schoolers.

 

Best part is, it has none of my area's and none of my (ok, but only a few) projects that I was worried would get exposed.

 

Bonus, half the approache descriptions to routes I'd never thought of climbing go like this..."scramble thru the huge bolderfield, you can camp among the massive bolders".

 

 

[drater]

The book says the north face standard route rolls right up the center starting at that wedge, called The Apron. 6 pitches. Top two supposedly amazing run out slab climbing.

 

5.5

[spotly]

Sweet! Thanks.

[drater]

Get the book is all I can say. Holy shit, I stayed up until 2pm reading it. Psyched to buy a rope all of a sudden!!!

 

Also, that 5.5 route attacks the weakness of the wall and he references tons of potential for hard slab climbs.

 

Who's got a hand drill they wanna sell cheap?

[spotly]

Just checked with Mountain Gear and Mountain Goat and neither one of them have the book yet

 

Where's Vandeforde's - Sandpoint?

[drater]

Yeah, on Cedar Street 1.5 blocks West of the Cedar/1st Street Corner, where the old coldwater creek bridge was...263-2417

[spotly]

Grabbed mine at Aunties in Spokane. 3 copies left. The route I was interested in is the one to the left with the question mark but I'll be more than happy to try out that 5.5 on the right

 

So far, looks like a nicely done guide but I'm surprised to see him perpetuate the Rusty ratings out at Post Falls.

[Jake_Gano]

Where's Aunties?

 

[spotly]

402 W. Main, Spokane, WA 99201 (509) 838-0206

 

The map store on Sprague has 3 copies too.

[pindude]

Started a new thread just for Laird's new guidebook here, so this thread can stay on the topic of Myrtle's Turtle.

[mccallboater]

More pics of Myrtle's Turtle, for those interested.

 

 

 

From on top

 

 

 

Close up of the exfoliation on the 4th class side

Edited August 26, 2007 by mccallboater

[mccallboater]

Huh. I thought that placed the pics in the message. Sorry.