Johannesberg CJ Couloir

[Mr._Blister]

Anyone climbed this couloir in late season when it is said to be a good alpine ice climb? I've down-climbed it in mid-July one year, but suspect it is in much different shape now. I would hope that it's not being strafed with rocks this late in the year as it was when we came down it.

Just trying to get an idea if it's worth the risks that come with any climb of good old J'Berg.

Thanks,

John Sharp

[slaphappy]

I gave it a go with a friend in the middle of October '98. The gate was shut so we hiked in a few miles in a drizzle. By the time we hit the base it was wet snow. I believe it was the first snow of the year, because underneath the ever-deepening fresh layer was good ice, until the very top. We spent the day simul-soloing until just above the hanging glacier where you cross the final crack/crevasse. Here the angle increases to 45 or 50 degrees and it was no longer holding the new fallen snow. I continued up on lousy placements. There was a thin eggshell layer of ice, probably from a recent rain, covering snow the consistency of sugar. About 150-200 feet from the col. I turned around only to see my partner staring up at me with a blank stare refusing to go any farther due to sketchy conditions. It was late and I conceded. I downclimbed to him, where the snow had been accumulating from the increasing spindrift. From here we glissaded/rode the snow, except for one short section that we downcilmbed, in questionable control until we were near the base of the couloir. Here the accumulation was insufficient for glissading and we downclimbed the remainder.

(Although I was called a liar by a frequent CC.com user in an old post about the glissading thing, my fond memory and my partners testimony stand as proof enough for me.)

Would I reccommend it? I don't think so. Routefinding is certainly straightforward, although I would recommend staying to the left for obvious reasons. It isn't really steep enough most of the way to make it exciting and it was an awful lot of work getting there and getting out of there. Although we had no incidents with falling debris (pretty cold), the threat was everpresent. Had there not been a small amount of new snow (up to 6-8 inches) the descent would have been far more problematic. We had a 60mx9mm and screws for v-threads, or would have used bollards. Downclimbing the whole thing may have been the best choice. Had there been a lot of snow it would have been suicidal.

I'm surprised your considering it having been down it once! I doubt I would repeat it, although those last few hundred feet irritate me. If you want any other info, ask.

[This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 09-06-2001).]

[This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 09-06-2001).]

[Mr._Blister]

Sounds like you gave it a good try. When Jim, Bob and I downclimbed it, we were a day late coming off the N.E. Rib, tired, hungry and thirsty. It sucked, and was as mentally tedious as it was physically exhausting to face in for so long. The snow was very hard, but not yet reduced to alpine ice. Our aluminum crampons and light-duty axes were sufficient, but did not inspire tremendous confidence, especially at the top. I'm sure it's much more entertaining to climb up than down.

Has no one else done this one?

John

[Mr._Blister]

Never mind. I read Loren's excellent TR on his website. He and Jens had loads of fun on the route.

John

[bobinc]

Hey John -- I'm sure Dallas K plans to do it at least once this year... perhaps he isn't on-line, however...