arlen Posted August 18, 2001 Posted August 18, 2001 Looking for suggestions for a crampon that hangs on well to the SM8. I'd sort of prefer a step-in over a strap-on. I'm not ruling out attempts at any kind of climbing in these boots, but what have you gotten out of them? Thanks in advance-- Arlen Quote
fleblebleb Posted August 19, 2001 Posted August 19, 2001 I have a pair of Salomons, Super Mountain 9 Guide I think (blue w/ orange). I've been on rock through 5.8 in them, all the WA volcanos and a number of peaks in the North Cascades and Olympics, and a few frozen waterfalls. I really like them, even for those long approach slogs... I'm not quite sure what the difference between the 8/9 is but the 8 probably aren't quite as stiff. That would mean they're not as good for technical ice and rigid crampons. They'll work great on snow climbs and lower-angle ice climbs unless you're planning on multi-day winter climbs - a plastic double would work better for that because you'd have an easier time keeping your feet warm and dry with the removable liner in the sleeping bag every night... I use a pair of Grivel Rambos, which work great for technical ice but are way overkill for French technique on low-angle snow - like on the volcanos and the Cascade climbs I have been on. I got them for waterfalls and wound up having to add anti-bots, which are the most hateful, screwiest piece of gear I know about. One of these days I'll get a nice pair of horizontal-oriented strap-on aluminum crampons, like those Stubais, or so I keep telling myself. Quote
mattp Posted August 19, 2001 Posted August 19, 2001 Fleblebleb is right. The Rambo's are not so good for general apine climbing although they are good for steep ice. If your boots are slightly soft, a rigid crampon can help make up for the loss of stiffness if you do want to climb some steep ice (I use the Rambo's with my telemark boots and the perform pretty well) but the lighter, horizontal oriented crampons are better for general mountaineering. Although you indicated you might prefer "step ins," you might consider some lighter ones, probably strap ons, if you aren't after waterfalls and other specialty climbing. The modern harness systems are pretty user-friendly, even if your fingers are cold. Quote
fleblebleb Posted August 19, 2001 Posted August 19, 2001 Actually the only reason I want straps is that I want to be able to use them with lighter boots too, ones without grooves. The crampons I mentioned are also available with step-in bindings. I've heard over and over again that the BD Sabretooths are among the best crampons you can get for alpine stuff. Haven't tried them myself though, but the design looks nice. Those would be what I would get if I were buying a new pair for all-around use in WA. Quote
Pencil_Pusher Posted August 20, 2001 Posted August 20, 2001 Like flebleb, I too have the SM9 Guides. They're great although I think they are lacking on friction stuff. But heck yeah, I can use them all day and my feet come out looking all nice and purdy. I use the Grivel 2F crampons which are pretty durned good. But they are cookie cutters so I also put on the anti-bot plate/rubber. The 2F's rock, you can leave them in flex or add included bolt and make them rigids. Plus they're supposedly light, relative to the others. Quote
Sean_Halling Posted August 20, 2001 Posted August 20, 2001 BD Sabretooths are nice. I've used them on both plastic and leather boots. with no complaints They have worked for me on waterfalls and volcano slogs. They seem to be good all-around crampons. Quote
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