hemp22 Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 wow, so much traffic on a beacon/pdx thread. i'm overwhelmed. anyway, Stewart, that was me & my buddy who bailed off the SE corner tree ahead of you, while you were belaying Jim up on Saturday. we thought you were crazy for even considering going up any further. i was bummed to wimp out of our young warriors objective, but the sub-freezing windchill was really gettin to us. pink-chalk - that was me and a different buddy who were climbing next to you Sunday @ Broughton. (he helped you with the whole hair-in-the-belay-device thing). And a different friend who showed up to solo Mr. Bentley after we left. i've watched him do that several times, and it still creeps me out. But it's not at his limit, and it's short enough to be a boulder problem, so more power to him... glad folks had a good weekend outside locally cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Hemp, that was me and Ken (112) when you got to the p2 belay. It was ok further up, and the wind isn't really that big a deal from the tree up until you meet the SE corner ridge and then it's turbo time for sure up the ridge ramp. Going up the ramp in those conditions you have to put in enough gear to keep your rope from flying out into space and hanging up on something over the edge which would really suck. If you don't want to deal with the corner ridge then do Uprising and finish on the trail. Overall I strive to climb at the same pace with the same pro regardless of the conditions so long as we're not talking really wet. You kind of just have to get into the wildness of the cold and wind, but I find I oddly derive a margin of safety just from keeping my rythmn, pace, and pro all the same. You also have to work out a system that works for you which allows you to stay reasonably warm in order to keep that mindset going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 i know i've seen you solo... you have? Where and what? Kevy: I've seen you solo!!!!!!!!!!!! Punk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Me too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 thrice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
112 Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 I got caught today starting to solo up a shotcrete retaining wall at work. I was about 4 feet up when 2 workers come around the corner. I didn't notice them at first, I was about to go for the 5.3 weakness of about 25 feet when I noticed them. We all laughed and then I got down. And I am supose to, kinda, be in charge. Haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Ken, good for you for making it down and getting out so much of late. I think you and others added a bit of motivation for Jim to do a big final push as well - it's been great to hear about him getting out howling everyday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
112 Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Yeah, I just met Jim recently. He sure is a cool dude! We did the corner on Friday, and it was cold, but no where near what it was Saturday. I was coming around the corner, off of the slab, in that real good stance where you are parellel with YW anchor #2, and the wind is just blasting me in the face. I feel like I am about to fly into space. I stand there just holding on for like 20 seconds, and then I just start laughing histerically, and Joseph, about 15 feet up, joins in laughing with me. Great times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 wow, so much traffic on a beacon/pdx thread. i'm overwhelmed. anyway, Stewart, that was me & my buddy who bailed off the SE corner tree ahead of you, while you were belaying Jim up on Saturday. we thought you were crazy for even considering going up any further. i was bummed to wimp out of our young warriors objective, but the sub-freezing windchill was really gettin to us. pink-chalk - that was me and a different buddy who were climbing next to you Sunday @ Broughton. (he helped you with the whole hair-in-the-belay-device thing). And a different friend who showed up to solo Mr. Bentley after we left. i've watched him do that several times, and it still creeps me out. But it's not at his limit, and it's short enough to be a boulder problem, so more power to him... glad folks had a good weekend outside locally cheers Glad to know he wasn't at his limit! Tell your other friend thank you again for offering a hand and his quick attention. Nothing like letting a total stranger give a firemens belay... I remember looking at him straight in the eye and feeling in my bones that he had me. What a day... oh and the sunset too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 i know i've seen you solo... you have? Where and what? Kevy: I've seen you solo!!!!!!!!!!!! Punk! I was not bagging on soloing.....Yes I have soloed plenty but I was saying it is not realy accepted, climbers who watch or see others solo....kind of have to either take it or leave that area. Yes...I have soloed classic crack....can you hear my chestthumping???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Yeah, I just met Jim recently. Welcome to the club! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
112 Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Yeah, I just met Jim recently. Welcome to the club! Thanks, just wish I wasn't the 'new' Ken, becasue the old Ken sounds badass, and I ain't no old Ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Yeah, I just met Jim recently. Welcome to the club! Thanks, just wish I wasn't the 'new' Ken, becasue the old Ken sounds badass, and I ain't no old Ken. Yeah Ken was cool and a badass. He would solo from the ground to the ledge in 8 minutes! He would sneak up on us sitting up there poke his head up and yell AAARRRRHHHH and scare the hell out of us. He would also scare aware anybody who was not “local”, just by flexing his HUGE biceps. I miss Ken. Not sure what happened to him, he just up and disappeared. Ken ……where are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 i know i've seen you solo... you have? Where and what? Kevy: I've seen you solo!!!!!!!!!!!! Punk! I was not bagging on soloing.....Yes I have soloed plenty but I was saying it is not realy accepted, climbers who watch or see others solo....kind of have to either take it or leave that area. Yes...I have soloed classic crack....can you hear my chestthumping???? Just try to relax... we're on the same side. Giving you a hard time But about that hip belay!! ....that might be a different story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 i think a trip down to visit me IS in order. hmm, I didnt get the memo. send me an email... J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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