eldiente Posted January 27, 2007 Posted January 27, 2007 Looks to be great weather this weekend and I'm looking to climb Beacon. Any takers? I can bring the rack and the rope. If for some reason Beacon is to windy or cold I'd be open for climbing someplace else around Portland that is a little more protected. Email me or PM me. natetack@gmail.com -Nate Quote
JosephH Posted January 28, 2007 Posted January 28, 2007 Nate, dress warm - today ended up turbo-burly... Quote
hemp22 Posted January 28, 2007 Posted January 28, 2007 i concur. it ended up being damn cold with the wind today. not as nice as i'd hoped for based on the forecast for 46 & sunny Quote
eldiente Posted January 28, 2007 Author Posted January 28, 2007 Yeah, the wind looked ugly out there this PM. Damn, I was afraid of that. Anyone up for some other spot? Madrone might be good and out of the wind. Nate Quote
kevbone Posted January 28, 2007 Posted January 28, 2007 Madrone is closed dude. Please dont go there. Quote
JosephH Posted January 28, 2007 Posted January 28, 2007 I didn't mean to suggest don't climb, just dress warm - the climbing is fine if you do... Quote
ivan Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 wasn't so bad y-day - windy as hell for sure - my hands got cold enough on blownout that i accidentally punched the rock w/ my numbed hand and didn't realize it until i felt the wrist stop working and saw a big flapper on my knuckle - spent a minute moving all the gear to my right side so i could actually manipulate it did the adventure rap down the n face w/ tour-guide opdyke n' company - fun times - like a vertical hobo camp - the evidence of the 1901 ascent is wild Quote
kevbone Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 did the adventure rap down the n face w/ tour-guide opdyke n' company - fun times - like a vertical hobo camp - the evidence of the 1901 ascent is wild Great job Ken. Jim and I climbed up to rancho relaxo about 3 years ago, from the ground. Talk about crazy climbing. Grabbing onto the 12 inch spike coming out of the rock and using them for pro. That was cool. Glad to see you exploring. Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 blownout that must have been a fun belay. someone should fill up the tunnels with diesel and get some central heating going. Quote
Stewart Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 Last Saterday was windy as hell. I climbed Little Wing and my whole body was swaying with the wind. Thought I was coming off for sure. Then at the belay I set my pack down and It blew right off the Rock down to the ground. We did the corner pitch and then bailed off the tree againts my wishes, but Jim was wanting to get down. Bailing off the tree is some of the scariest shit I've ever done. While I was sitting on the roots of the tree, I actually felt the ground below me lift off of the rock. Fastest rappel I've ever done. Jim liked the jacket you gave him Joseph. Now if we can all pitch in and get him a new harness and then convince him to accept it that would be great for his belay partner. He actually caught me on a 15 foot fall last spring and the duct tape held, thank god. Stewart Quote
kevbone Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 get him a new harness and then convince him to accept it that would be great for his belay partner. Never happen. I have been trying for 10 years. Quote
Stewart Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 What if we just buy it and then give it to him? I think Yates has a comfy aid harness. Quote
markd Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 get him a new harness and then convince him to accept it that would be great for his belay partner. Never happen. I have been trying for 10 years. kevin, i still have your harness ( light blue ) that you were just as stubborn to retire a few years ago! i plan on saving it for a while and then bringing it out for a laugh down the road. Quote
markd Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 Last Saterday was windy as hell. I climbed Little Wing and my whole body was swaying with the wind. Thought I was coming off for sure. Then at the belay I set my pack down and It blew right off the Rock down to the ground. We did the corner pitch and then bailed off the tree againts my wishes, but Jim was wanting to get down. Bailing off the tree is some of the scariest shit I've ever done. While I was sitting on the roots of the tree, I actually felt the ground below me lift off of the rock. Fastest rappel I've ever done. Jim liked the jacket you gave him Joseph. Now if we can all pitch in and get him a new harness and then convince him to accept it that would be great for his belay partner. He actually caught me on a 15 foot fall last spring and the duct tape held, thank god. Stewart you're a punk snoop! you were supposed to be climbing down here last weekend. we did four ground up first ascents... next time you should come? Quote
kevbone Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 get him a new harness and then convince him to accept it that would be great for his belay partner. Never happen. I have been trying for 10 years. kevin, i still have your harness ( light blue ) that you were just as stubborn to retire a few years ago! i plan on saving it for a while and then bringing it out for a laugh down the road. How do you have my old harness? Did I leave it at your house or something? I would like to get it sometime from you! Quote
kevbone Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 What if we just buy it and then give it to him? I think Yates has a comfy aid harness. I think the trick would be not only buy him a new one but to take his old one. Quote
ivan Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 What if we just buy it and then give it to him? I think Yates has a comfy aid harness. I think the trick would be not only buy him a new one but to take his old one. while stealing things from him, might as well take the smokes too - poor bastard sounds like a 1-man anti-smoking commercial! Quote
JosephH Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 Yep, that was pretty windy. I got tipped out of a sitting belay stance at the bottom of the corner ridge. Jim did seem to get the idea that, while not nearly as iconically stylish, the new gear can keep you fairly warm and you can still move your arms. That harness is a different story altogether. I haven't looked at it too close lately, but I suspect it's fine. I'm guessing you're right he'd only bite on a Misty or Yates - but even that's pretty dubious given he has a lot of love and identity wrapped up in that baby. Quote
ivan Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 blownout that must have been a fun belay. someone should fill up the tunnels with diesel and get some central heating going. blownout got much calmer and nicer once up to the belay - the upper pitch is pretty sheltered - the thrutch onto the topout ledge woulda been ultra-epic though Quote
Stewart Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 I believe that was the weekend before last, and you had better save me a hand crack or two, or else I'll just have to keep repeating yours. were you at the Opal? Yes I am a punk, got a job interview today so wish me luck, then I can travel as much as my bank account allows me too. Beacon is closing feb 1st and I had to get one more lap in before the birds start to nest "ON THE EAST FACE!!!" Just venting, but It was cool coming over the lip on P1 of the corner and seeing a fresh duck head with the spinal cord hanging out of it. As much as Jim wants to see those birds go away, I love 'em. snoop Quote
kevbone Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 (edited) Speaking of the tunnels, Jim seems to think that all the cracks at Beacon are connected. He states tat when you are having a meeting on the ledge you can hear people on the ground in front of the first hole. There voices coming up through the crack in the back of the ledge. Not sure how much weight I give this. Jim swears up and down this to be true. Edited January 29, 2007 by kevbone Quote
Stewart Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 He actually caught me on a 15 foot fall last spring and the duct tape held, thank god. Yeah its still good. when he ties in he almost makes another harness with the rope. stewart PS. were was pink_chalk this weekend? Quote
markd Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 I believe that was the weekend before last, and you had better save me a hand crack or two, or else I'll just have to keep repeating yours. were you at the Opal? sorry no more hand cracks. opal? never heard of it Quote
markd Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 get him a new harness and then convince him to accept it that would be great for his belay partner. Never happen. I have been trying for 10 years. kevin, i still have your harness ( light blue ) that you were just as stubborn to retire a few years ago! i plan on saving it for a while and then bringing it out for a laugh down the road. How do you have my old harness? Did I leave it at your house or something? I would like to get it sometime from you! not sure how i ended up with it. i've had it for a few years. ( and a few moves ) i've only saved it because i knew it would be funny down the road. remember when i wouldn't let you belay me with it? Quote
kevbone Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 remember when i wouldn't let you belay me with it? Ah…. those were the days. I also remember you forgetting your belay device and giving me a hip belay on a 4 pitch climb. I remember being that is was our second day of climbing together and the confidence you boasted gave me confidence to trust you completely. I remember you pulling the rope tight around your waist and yelling “I WILL NOT LET YOU FALL”, well that was good enough for me and off we went, up Young Warriors. Quote
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