kevbone Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 DFA please shut the fuck up. Your irrational thoughts are not needed in this disussion. Say something of worthwhile thought and honesty, and it would be greatly accepted mabey even appreciated. For now leave your shit in spray. Ooohhh, you want it bad, don't you, big boy? PM full body shot and free-climbing ray-zoo-may for consideration. No... Im just sick of seeing your pro-sport, anti aid, irrational rants, in attempts at serious discussions. I don't care how hard you can free that doesn't make you opinion any more just than mine. Like many have said before... Royal Robbins, Fred Becky, Etc.. can't free 5.12 nor never did, but so they as climbers, have a lesser opinion than you or others who might be able to free 5.13? Oh, you are upset because the great Dr. Flash Amazing has an opinion that differs from yours and he chooses to express that opinion with all the force afforded him by his justifiably colossal ego? Truly, it is just tragic that you have had your sensibilities offended by someone else's opinion, and on the internet no less. Tragic. Unfortunately, even if you strip away the baroque trappings of the Amazing persona, you are still left with the same core opinion, i.e. that a high-standard bolted free climb will always trump some chuffer's beat-out pin-job. Kapish? This has nothing to do with Royal Robbins or Fred Beckey, who have actually advanced the sport. However, if someone bolts up a Robbins aid line in order to free it, so much the better. But the Doctor digresses. It is, as you say, merely an opinion, and as such should not cause harm to your person. DFA does not have a drill, nor does he have the time or motivation to bolt new lines or free pinned-out seams on obscure chosspiles with long, uphill approaches, so your precious benchmarks of etrier artistry are at present safe from this Doctor. Oh, and calling DFA irrational? Please--if you cannot grasp what the Doctor is saying, it is clearly indicative of a deficiency in your reading comprehension, so take a minute to sound out the big words, consult a dictionary, or ask a more competent reader to help you. If it's good enough for George "Nuke-ya-lur" Bush, it's good enough for a hammer-swinging aider-fellator from Beavertown. Dr. Flush (not so) Amazing. I do respect your opinion, (sometimes) even if I don’t agree. But you are a nut job simply because you write half the time in the third person. Ha…..ha! How weird. Your ego is bigger than your writing skills. As far as someone bolting up an old Robbins aid line. Do you really think that would be OK? If you do, I disagree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 FKNA the doctor scribbles out another prescription of smackdown for the pharmacy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 scribbles That is a good way to describe it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 So another interesting question. You bolt an old aid line because you don’t have the balls to lead it on the existing gear….that is supposed to be “better style”. And then you get to rename it? WTF? I would think renaming it is a slam of disrespect of those who came before you. The “renaming” thing is kind of a new thing of late. Potter free’s an old aid line that has been established since the early 70’s and he gets to rename it? I completely think this is crap. Its not a new climb, just a different way of climbing it. Its not “better style” just different style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Renaming a route when you free it has been a climbing tradition since the 1930's, dumbass. Those guys like Robbins even did it. So STFU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 (edited) Renaming a route when you free it has been a climbing tradition since the 1930's, dumbass. Those guys like Robbins even did it. So STFU. I don’t think so. What better or different style did they do it in? What did they use different ropes or aid with different gear. Please be more specific. I don’t care if they have been doing it before Christ….i still think its fookin lame. What constitutes a name change? Freeing it over aid? That is lame. So if I freed some easy 5.8 at smith with a blind fold on…..I get to rename the route. I mean….come on; I just freed it in a bolder style. Right? Edited January 22, 2007 by kevbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Aid is not a legitimate style in its own right. It is simply cheating using ladders, and unsuccessful free climbing. Therefore until a route is freed it hasn't had a real ascent and can be named anything by the first to free it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 astroman would be a perfect example. what a rad name for an old aid line. it is called thr east face and astroman in the freeclimbing guide. the east face route is barely mentioned in the big wal guide. i can think of a few free climb's that could stand to be renamed. the nose and the salathe wall on the other hand have not been renamed. i don't think any elcap route has had it's name changed except for maybe the freeblast. what other routes can anybody think of that has had their names changed going aid to free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Aid is not a legitimate style in its own right. It is simply cheating using ladders, and unsuccessful free climbing. Therefore until a route is freed it hasn't had a real ascent and can be named anything by the first to free it. G-boy….are you stupid? I don’t think so personally, but with comments like that, I question you. I have a friend who has the FA ( That’s FIRST ACCENT. Not FFA first free accent) on several large formations around the world. Like Mt Thor and Mt Asgard and Nameless tower. Are you going to tell him to his face his accents are REAL….that’s what I thought. Your turn to STFU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Did Lynn Hill rename The Nose? No. Did Paul Pianna and Todd Skinner rename the Salathay wall. NO. If they tried, they would get laughed out of the park. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 ACCENT: Like those hicks from Georgia have. ASCENT: A climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Too bad your friend spent all that time failing on big summits. He could have been training for free climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Aid is not a legitimate style in its own right. It is simply cheating using ladders, and unsuccessful free climbing. Therefore until a route is freed it hasn't had a real ascent and can be named anything by the first to free it. i guess that i have never really climbed a big wall. i suspect ice climbing isn't climbing either, people should learn how to climb ice with their hand's. i would bet that dru has never done hard aid way off the deck. i would bet that dru deep down inside is a bigger pussy than he leads on to be. it's funny how you praise royal robbin's and cut him down in almost the same breath. my hero's were a bunch of cheaters. i'm a cheater. thank's for ruining my day dru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 There is no such thing as hard aid. I mean I've taken 50 footers on a hook but it wasn't hard at all. It would have been way, way harder to free it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 do you think every route on elcap is a potential free climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 After the aid climbers get done with hammering them, then yes. Cause even the Shield headwall will be hands-size if the pin scars keep widening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Too bad your friend spent all that time failing on big summits. He could have been training for free climbing. Now I know you don’t actually mean that. Because you would truly be the fool. Brad has the third acent of Jolly Roger A5 on El Cap, which he SOLOED and the third acent of Bishodo ( I know I did not spell that right) A4+ on half dome and many 20 day outing at 20,000 feet which usually come in at A4+. Are you telling me these are worthless? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 the sheild can be done clean. that pussy charlie fowler did the first clean assent. most freeclimber's will never free the nose and it hasn't been hammered on for year's. i would bet that you will never free the nose either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 They are failures, by definition, because they did not involve free climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 If you drive a car around a racetrack, is that the aid version of a 400 meter footrace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 There is no such thing as hard aid. I mean I've taken 50 footers on a hook but it wasn't hard at all. It would have been way, way harder to free it. Hey bro…piece of advice. You’re losing this conversation, better keep your trap shut, before you make yourself out to be a total idiot……wait. Too late. No such thing as hard aid. Dude…..ssshhhh! 50 footers? My buddy has taken 150 footers 4000 feet off the deck 100 miles from the nearest town of 50 people. You got know room to talk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 i personally think if it's not soloed naked it just hasn't been done in it's purest form. everything else is just cheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Pagetops are aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 50 footers? My buddy has taken 150 footers 4000 feet off the deck 100 miles from the nearest town of 50 people. You got know room to talk! Wow, that's a big failure all right. Your bud is better at falling and failing to free than I am. Wow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 are you a yo, yo dru, or do you lust for the onsight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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