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Posted

Headin' up to Mt. Slesse in ten days for what we hope is a pleasant time on NE buttress. Hate to carry too much gear though. Anyone know what shape the pocket glacier is in? What's the likelihood of finding a water supply along the route during this time of year?

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Posted

ask robertm he just did it. I saw his photos online here yesterday in the what did you climb thread. looked like it was totally there in fine form [laf]

 

Posted by robertm-

 

robertm

Rope Lead

Member # 26

 

posted 07-23-2002 06:02 PM

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NE Buttress of Mt. Si. I don't remember there being a glacier the last time I was up it. I did see some cougars

 

Here are the pics:

 

Pictures

 

http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b3076f3f8497

 

[ 07-24-2002, 04:29 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

Posted

We had to climb 5.10 rock to get onto the buttress. The glacier is coming apart at the seams. I would opt to go from the toe if doing it again. A moat & serac blocks access to the bypass ramps. Conditions were excellent. There is no snow on the descent so fill up before the trail (running water). There was a small snow patch at the huge bivy ledge but most likely this will be gone in the next few days.

Posted

The pocket glacier is still very problematic. It took us 2 hours to find a way across and had to pull some serious shennanigans. Another party who happened across bailed due to the complications. I would say take crampons because they will save you a lot of time and spare some scetchy moves. A small tool was essential. There are still several oportunities for water on the route including a 8x4 snowpatch on the big bivy area. Seriously consider the Crossover Pass descent. The descent off the backside is long and terrible. Dont take mountain bikes, take a 2nd car, whatever it takes to do so is worth it. I got a flat tire on the ride out and had to hike many more miles than I wanted to. Feel free to email with specific questions.

 

cgentzel@aai.cc

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