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max

Best guide for BC alpine rock?

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I'm lookin' to do a little climbing in the BC mountains this season. Does anyone have suggestions on a good guide book for alpine rock routes? I've seen the SW BC Rock Climbs, but this seems to be focused on "crag" climbing. Any "alpine" alternatives? Also, I'd like to hear recommendations for 1-3 day trips in SW BC, again, focusing on rock routes.

Note: Today is Friday and ya'll should have a big smile on your face.

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Mclane's guide is the only thing going for alpine rock in SW BC, but he limited the book to cover only weekend range from Vancouver.

Look at Selkirks South by David Jones, also published by Elaho. You could head in and do Mt. Sir Donald and tick off one of the fifty classics.

Central BC Rock by Lyle Knight also covers routes on Yak Peak in addition to the cragging options in the southern interior. Yak is impressive looking from the highway, but gets mixed reviews as a climb; I plan on finding out for myself though.

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www.bivouac.com

Or get Bruce Fairley's out-of-date guide (Gordon Soules Books 1986).

Frankly i dont get what you mean by calling alpine select "crag" mountaineering? what do you mean by alpine then?

And in the BC mts... do you mean Coast Mts, Cascades, Selkirks, Purcells, Valhallas, Monashees, Rockies or what??? BC is twice the size of California, man. Be specific.

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www.bivouac.com is ok if you know what you want to climb and have some time and a computer, but it's hardly a good "guide".

As far as SW BC being "crag" climbs: Maybe I'm referencing the wrong book. I'm thinking of a light blue book with big, blocky yellow title... Anyways, the book seems to detail some of the cragging areas around sw bc other than squamish. When I say cragging, I mean short climbs, climbs you would wear sneakers to, bring your dog, and maybe bring a beginner. I know the book had a section on yak and some large wall, maybe it said something about the coyote's penis?

Yeah, I'm looking for climing near fort St. John? Feel free to make an assumption about where in BC I'd like to climb. If that's too much, I'll choose SW BC.

The bottom line is this: I'd like to do some alpine rock climbs in SW BC. I'm looking for a guide book.

Thanks. No smart-ass attitude intended.

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quote:

Originally posted by tasmith513:
"Alpine Select" by Kevin McLane has some great choices in it. Elaho publishing 2001.


in washington we call this the answer with no attitude.....tom has listed the book that is THE book....

and drul....wack.com rulz....

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quote:

Originally posted by max:
is ok if you know what you want to climb and have some time and a computer, but it's hardly a good "guide".

As far as SW BC being "crag" climbs: Maybe I'm referencing the wrong book. I'm thinking of a light blue book with big, blocky yellow title... Anyways, the book seems to detail some of the cragging areas around sw bc other than squamish. When I say cragging, I mean short climbs, climbs you would wear sneakers to, bring your dog, and maybe bring a beginner. I know the book had a section on yak and some large wall, maybe it said something about the coyote's penis?

Yeah, I'm looking for climing near fort St. John? Feel free to make an assumption about where in BC I'd like to climb. If that's too much, I'll choose SW BC.

The bottom line is this: I'd like to do some alpine rock climbs in SW BC. I'm looking for a guide book.

Thanks. No smart-ass attitude intended.

see, you are thinking of Central BC Rock, which is a guide to crag climbing in central BC with a brief mention of the huge walls of Bella Coola (shhhh) thrown in for good measure.

the book youi want is this one 87_AlpineSelect.jpg it has a red spine not a blue one! tongue.gif" border="0tongue.gif" border="0tongue.gif" border="0

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That's the one, Dru. Great book, but sort of expensive. It runs about 30 bucks U.S.--so it must be like $55 in Canadian play money right Dru? Nice photos you have in there there by the way...

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quote:

Originally posted by tasmith513:
That's the one, Dru. Great book, but sort of expensive. It runs about 30 bucks U.S.--so it must be like $55 in Canadian play money right Dru? Nice photos you have in there there by the way...

you get a deal, $30 in CDN or USA $$, so buy Canadian!

im just waiting to take photos of Ray Borbon for the next edition.

grin.gif" border="0

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some recommended rock routes:

south ridge, Graingernorth ridge, Clarkeeast ridge, RexfordPup Buttress, Harveys PupLillarete, Mt AthelstanPurple People Eaters, AlpacaNorth Buttress, ChamoisNE Buttress, SlesseNinja Tiger Arete, ScuzzyNE ridge, Sloan (the one in BC)Mars Western/Duck a L'orange/SW buttress, Old SettlerWest Face, Overseer (hot springs bonus)*

* I havent dont this one but I heard if you are on route there is a nice "Indian Creek" style splitter on the 3rd pitch.

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FYI -- Kevin McLane will be at the Seattle Mountaineers HQ, attending 'The Alpinists' meeting on April 11 (Thursday) at 07:00pm. He will present a slide show of climbs in Alpine Select and be available for Q&A. The Alpinists meeting is open to all climbers, member or not, and is meant to be a place to meet other climbers, to network, etc.

[ 04-08-2002: Message edited by: erden ]

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