Lilllooet Ice Update (December 23)

[Lyle_Knight]

Climbed in Marble yesterday, had the whole place to myself 'til 3 Kamloops climbers showed up and offered a rope. It was -4C during the day, around -10C at night for the past week. Here's an update:

Marble:Dale's Route (far left - mixed): Probably fatter than last year, looks like a small cam might go in the roof? There are 3 other smears forming to the left of Dale's that may go.

The Dihedral (an oxymoron): This pillar is a bit hacked up but in good shape.

Waite for Spring: Divided into two lines right now. The left line is leadable, a slung icicle near the bottom, then a few stubbies to get you there. The right line is a TR smearfest, getting into better ice on the upper half.

Deeping Wall: Very thin and tough to get onto as the first few moves have been bashed away, but is still possible in thin ice for axes (none for feet). The steep part above is very thin, not really any chandeliers or cauliflower yet, just thin picks (nothing for gear). Actually looks really hard and fun!

No Deductible: Forming left from normal position, and already thicker than last year. The bolts will be iced over soon. I'm guessing it's going to touch down this year.

Icy BC: A bit hacked out but forming nicely (v. wet). Is realitively fat to the top (all three pitches).

The Rest: The climbs associated with the third pitch all look to be in good shape!

Fraser River: Draft Dodger and French Foreign Lesion trying to form but getting washed out by the afternoon sun.

Cherry Ice: Looks pretty good from the other side of the Fraser (ie. it's coming in);

Honeyman Falls: Needs about a week of cold weather (it was -10C in town last night), and clear the a.m.). It's pretty well formed from top to bottom, with a few spewing holes. It'll get fatnow.

<---Ray crashing the Lillooet Fireman/ Policeman Xmas party <---the locals checkin' Ray out as he tries to steal their women <---Ray shortly after

Merry Christmas!L

[Cpt.Caveman]

Nice repor Lyle. Hehheeheh. I shall be up 26 December. Ice the beers

[Rafael_H]

Please, please, please don't hack the hell out of the ice, friends!

Thank you for the update, Lyle.

Caveman, see you around on Friday-Mon

[Colin]

Someone told me the other day that they had climbed Synchronicity (in thin, yet 'in' conditions) about a month ago. Did it melt away, or is there a conspiracy of people hording it for themselves and not mentioning it to be in?

[TimL]

Colin - Synchronicity was in and maybe a little thin from our vantage point on 12/31.

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by TimL:

Colin - Synchronicity was in and maybe a little thin from our vantage point on 12/31.

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Ditto I saw Tim up there and thought it looked good. I did not see any signs of it been climbed as far as tracks go but who knows it very well may have been done already. Have at it

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=28&t=000032

[ 01-01-2002: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[Dru]

Came thru Lillooet New Years Day and tried to climb Texas two step. it was not in. honeyman had a big hole. so did spray creek falls.

lots of ice in in the fraser canyon but warm temps are collapsing most of it as we speak. where is the week of -10?????????

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

Came thru Lillooet New Years Day and tried to climb Texas two step. it was not in. honeyman had a big hole. so did spray creek falls.

lots of ice in in the fraser canyon but warm temps are collapsing most of it as we speak. where is the week of -10?????????

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I hear you. That is why I was thrashing around at Index so I am reminiscing about summer rock at Tuolomne to get by