Flemish bend for joining cord

[rob]

Is it safe to use a flemish bend to join cord/rope? Someone admonished me the other day for using it. I was under the impression that it was safe, and I sometimes use it instead of a double-fisherman's because I find it easier to untie after loading.

 

This is the first I've heard that this is unsafe. Now, I do know better than to use a flat-eight, and I thought perhaps he had simply confused the two. I tried to point out the difference, but he seemed pretty adamant. He said that the knot could spill under load.

 

But I thought I'd ask around anyway. Is this guy smoking crack?

 

TIA!

[fern]

it's essentially the same retraced fig 8 you would use to tie into the rope. As long as you dress it properly and pre-cinch it tightly why would it be any more likely to unravel under load than your tie-in is in a fall?

 

there is a good reason for sticking to the common repertoire of climbing knots and not innovating with all manner of obscure sailing knots and bends - which is that just about any other observant person in the gym or at the crag will be able to check your knots and see when things are amiss in your rigging.

 

wikipedia

[Dechristo]

[Zaphod]

Is it safe to use a flemish bend to join cord/rope?

 

Yes, but it's bulky which means it's more likely to get stuck when pulling rappel ropes and takes a lot of time to tie. Use an overhand instead. For joining cord, I use a fisherman's. How often do you need to untie those knots? I hardly ever do.

 

Note that in a proper Flemish Bend, the tails come out of the knot on OPPOSITE sides. If you tie the knot such that the ends come out on the same side, the knot will roll under load and you will die. I think that is what your well-meaning critic was thinking of.

[snoboy]

If that is a Flemish bend in the pic above, then it should be OK. It is the standard knot for joining two ropes together in the BC/PEP Rope Rescue program.