Rack Question - add more BD C4s? (on sale at REI)

[baxawax]

Hi - I'm looking for some advice on adding to my rack - I have 3 tri cams, a full set of nuts, a few hexes, and 2 BD C4s - size 1 and 2. REI has the cams on sale, I'd like to add a couple more, any suggestions on sizes?

 

Thanks!

[Chad_A]

Oh, I guess it depends on what you plan on doing with it. There's probably people on here that would be better versed to answer this, but I'll take a general hack at it.

 

Looks like you don't have anything real big, and if you plan on going rock climbing (in the sense of cragging, that is), you might want to fill in with a #3? Then maybe get a .75 to have something to place on lead easier when you're pumped than a tri-cam. If you're really comfortable placing tri-cams on lead, maybe pick up the #4 instead of the #.75?

 

It all depends on what your priority is, and what you plan on doing, I'd guess. Hell, go for your favorite colors

Edited October 14, 2006 by vw4ever

[Arc]

:ditto:

 

I climbed a crack down in the Canyon lands which requires about 18 #3 Friends.....talk about a rack which can make ya look like a plumber.

[dbconlin]

for a starter rack, though, I would focus on 0.75, 0.5, 0.4 sizes which I find I use much more often than 3+

[catbirdseat]

Yes, if you were to buy to more, get the 0.5 and the 0.75.

[baxawax]

Thanks y'all...well the dude at REI suggested another #1 so I got that but now I see your suggestions to get the smaller ones. I'll grab a couple of those next time!

[Dr_Flush_Amazing]

..the dude at REI suggested another #1 ..

 

That's great advice.... for me to poop on.

 

For a basic rack you should get one cam each from blue Metolius size to #3 camalot. You should be able to climb most routes with that. If you can only get one or two cams at a time, I would recommend filling in the smaller sizes on your rack before getting a #3 camalot and certainly before doubling up on sizes you already have. Be wary of of any advice provided by an REI employee in the climbing section. It is most likely wrong - as it was in this case.

 

After a while climbing with the rack described above, you will figure out which size cracks you like to climb and that will help determine which cams you buy next.

[rhyang]

Gearexpress.com has blem/2nd C4's on sale too in the larger sizes, and also 0.5 & 0.3. Not as cheap as REI's 20% off, but pretty close if sales tax for WA or CA is added in. Modernmountainman.com has blems/2nds in 0.5, 1 and 3 (bargain basement section), and Northernmountain.com has seconds in the 0.75.

[Farrgo]

There's no need or reason to add to duplicates to your rack until you have at least singles. It looks like your staying pretty minimalist with your rack so I'd second everyone else, get a .75 or .5. Those are very versitile pieces. Then work your way up.

 

Although I have doubles up to BD #4. I rarely need them. In fact I only take one #3 most of the time. Get a single set of cams from finger sized to hands ~#2/#3, then start filling it out with doubles. I went for doubles in fingers initially because those pump me out the fastest, whereas I feel like I could hang on for a day while I wiggle in a hex.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Yeah, yet another example of REI giving rather poor advice. Take that #1 back and trade it for a 0.75. I would second most everyone else with the 0.5 and 0.75 FIRST, then worry about a #3, and then maybe a 0.4. When you've got a full set of cams from around 0.3 to #4, then I'd worry about doubles. My first rack was 4 cams (equivalent to 0.5 to #2) and 9 nuts, it got me up quite a bit of alpine anyways.

 

Oh and don't listen to vw4ever's advice on bigger gear first, he still needs to learn to climb real cracks, and then he'll be happy for those hand and finger sized cams. ;-)