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Broken Top- N Buttress


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Me and RP attempted the the N Butt of Broken Top last friday, during the steller weather we've been having lately.

We climbed approximately 500 ft of 45 to 50 deg snow and alpine ice(perfect cork) to the crux pitch that links the top of the gulley to the upper face. The crux was thin and we couldn't get much of an anchor in. So we down climbed and moved a couple gullies to the west. We climbed a nice ice pitch (WI 3, but short)and got onto the upper N. face by climbing a snow gully and then a long section (1200ft?) of 45 to 50 deg snow and summited.The final moves to the summit were steep, loose snow.

High Noon looks good now though, we just need some more freeze thawing action.

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