snowleopard_x Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 Hey Iain - You noted in another post that you left two pickets on the Devil's Kitchen Headwall. When did you give it a shot? A friend and I turned back on the Flying Buttress at the moat two years ago in April as the route looked much harder than what Thomas describes in his book. Though now that I know, that's a good thing. You said there was a lot of "littler" up there. I have never seen anyone, let alone heard anyone climb the DKH, or anything on the East Crater Rim. Most people don't even consider them routes up the mountain. So this surprises me. But considering that Thomas makes them seem rather easy in his book, climbers bailing on any of them and leaving pro doesn't surprise me at all either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 Sorry didn't catch your post 'till now. We were actually climbing Wy'east. Some of our party were moving way too slow to finish and it was starting to white out, so up on the rim, we decided to downclimb DKH to hit the goat trail. Two of us downclimbed and we set pickets for a less-experienced person in our group to rappel. It was all rime and the odd loose boulder. It wasn't very fun but it wasn't in the best of condition either. A little alarming when the pitch started rolling over into the mist and I couldn't see if I was climbing down into some real steep stuff, hanging off rime. When I got to the bottom I was in a seething stink machine (the kitchen) that rusted out picks and crampons asap and left my clothes stinkin'. By "litter" I just meant there was a bunch of pickets up there to be had (on various routes in sketchy locations). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaee Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 I did Devils Kitchen Headwall (variation 5d, in Oregon High) in Early January. As I finished leading the 2nd pitch and made it to the rim it started blowing hard. By the time my partner made it to the rim it was howling. The only good spot we found for a bollard had about 12 inches wide by 6 inches thick ice, with a crack in front of it. We also left a picket there to backup that bollard. Lower down the ice was a bit more consistent and the second rappel was off a bomber bollard. I confess, I left one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Isn't that classic Oregon climbing the routes aren't difficult but they can still scare the crap out of you at times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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