Squamish Question

[TeleRoss]

Does anyone know if the Lower Malamute in Squamish is currenly open to climber access? I know it had been closed due to ownership issues with the railroad, but had recently heard that it was open again but have not been able to confirm that.

Thanks.

[stinkyclimber]

You can check for latest closures at Climbers Access Society of BC .

 

Looks like it is still closed, but maybe a local has more up to date info...

[colt45]

The new version of McLane's guidebook indicates routes on the lower malamute which can be accessed without crossing railroad property.

[Choada_Boy]

The new version of McLane's guidebook indicates routes on the lower malamute which can be accessed without crossing railroad property.

 

I don't have the guide in front of me, but I don't think that that is the case.

[colt45]

I don't have the guide in front of me, but I don't think that that is the case.

I am referring to the "newest" version of the book (2005?), which has the upper black dyke on the front cover.

[Choada_Boy]

Right. Does he even include descriptions for climbs like "Clean Crack"?

[colt45]

I believe that Clean Crack is completely omitted from the guidebook (although I don't have the book with me at the moment). The topos have a line drawn to indicate the boundary with railroad property, and the text indicates how the routes can be accessed without trespassing (e.g. by rappelling in).

[matt_m]

No clean crack etc are not in the new guide- new 06 guide has a line where the RR property right of way is - no climbs within that zone are included meaning that older guide is worth keeping (for both lower malamute and haybrich = though I've heard the alpine BC rock climbs is good for haybrich too)

[gearheart]

Here's a recent summary on Malamute access issues from the Squamish Access Society (SAS):

 

Although climbers have been active on the Malamute for over 40 years, it presents climbers today with the most high profile and complex access situation in the entire region. The Malamute can be considered as two separate areas; upper and lower, each with a different set of ownership and access issues.

 

The situation at the lower Malamute, where the CN Rail tracks skirt along the base of the cliffs, is that the rail right-of-way, some 18 metres each side of the tracks, has been aggressively declared by the rail company as a “we may prosecute” zone if they find climbers there.

 

All the Malamute crags and climbs beyond and above the rail right-of-way are on undeveloped private land and the owners, two Squamish businessmen, have offered no formal objection to the presence of climbers. However, this situation cannot be taken for granted, and it could change at any time. If you visit or climb at the upper Malamute, the SAS asks that you be fully aware it is private property and be respectful, both of the place itself, and anyone you may encounter there.

 

Todd Gerhart

(SAS Director)