Need Some Advice!!

[OrganDonor]

I have a couple general questions regarding rapelling and belaying from above. First is about rapelling. What is the best method/device used for rapelling? I have been using a super 8, which works well for me, but twists the rope pretty bad. Basically wondering which method/device works best, with minimal rope twist.

Second question is on belaying from above. Which method/device is most commonly used for belaying from above? If there is one. From reading on belay methods it seems that belaying from above using a munter hitch directly from the anchor seems pretty safe. I realize that its all preference for most climbers, but some methods must have advantages and disadvanatges. Any advice from seasoned climbers would be great. Thanks.

[catbirdseat]

Any tube style belay device would work for rappelling and all would twist the rope less than a figure eight device.

 

For belaying from above, the Munter Hitch directly on the anchor is an accepted method. Another method is to use one of the belay devices in the "autoblocking" mode, such as the B-52, reverso, GiGi or the ATC-Guide.

 

Yet another method is to belay off your harness using a belay device in the standard mode with a "redirect" to the anchor.

[ClimbingPanther]

I've been very happy with my BD ATC for rapelling. No rope twist at all (I let the rope go down between my legs for as straight a line as possible). It glides pretty easily.

 

It's not the ideal for belaying above though, because the rope slips through easily. Good for belaying the leader (some extra give in the system to minimize shock-loading), and it's not wrong for belaying the follower, just not the ideal. I still use it for both though. The theory is to minimize/eliminate the amount of rope that goes through the device if the follower falls to preserve his/her progress, however follower falls don't typically generate much force anyway.

[Arc]

Reverso.

[Toast]

when belaying a second, I actually prefer to belay off the anchor with a munter hitch. It leaves me free and out of the system. It's also easy to release and extend slack, something that's a little tricky (or dangerous if you don't know how) with an autoblocking device like a reverso or B-52. Last, you're automatically set up to tie off or lower if you have to.