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[TR] Mt. Hubris- Cosmic Wall 9/12/2006


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Climb: Mt. Hubris-Cosmic Wall

 

Date of Climb: 9/12/2006

 

Trip Report:

Cosmic Wall - "Das Toof of Dunsmuir"

 

267face.JPG

 

Last week I needed to make a spur of the moment drive down to CA. I decided to break up the drive and check out Castle Crags, just off of I-5 in northern California.

 

Armed with beta from summitpost.org, and mountainproject.com I thought I'd try checking out the Cosmic Wall (5.6).

 

Left Seattle around 6am, arrived at Castle Crags State Park (exit #724) around 2:30 pm, was hiking by 3 and when I checked my watch upon arrival at the base of the climb it was exactly 4:20 hahaha.gif. It was hot as hell there, but I guess I timed it right and got shade for much of the hike and the climb.

 

The climb turned out to be easy enough, though it appears you might be sketching if you wanted gear very often. The rock is clean, well-featured and solid. All that black stuff in the pictures is not lichen.

 

The crux of the climb may be a short traverse over onto a nice bolted belay ledge (top of p2) and then back off of it. But since I wasn't needing no stinkin' belay ledge I was able to bypass those moves!

 

Apparently the original route skirts the summit arete on the left then smears up a groove, but I went straight up the highly featured arete. Many giant holds. No good gear perhaps, but way more aesthetic than the chimney/groove looked (plus I didn't see much in the way of gear that way either).

 

Beautiful pointy summit. Looking out on all those other craggy crags and Mt. Shasta.

 

The summit register contents were all wadded up like used snotrags, but one piece of notepaper had a nice sketch of a mountain and a poem:

 

We sit together

The mountain and me

Until only the mountain remains

 

-Li Po

 

Cosmic!

 

Gear Notes:

Rock shoes, running shoes for approach. Single 60m rope for rappel off backside.

 

Approach Notes:

Great trail until 1/4 mile of manzanita at end. To find the good but windy path through the manzanita, head up and just over ridge between Castle Dome and Mt. Hubris. Look upridge for the path. It travels directly beneath obvious 30-foot high snag.

 

looking up pitch 2 from top of pillar (middle of pitch 1)

267fromtreeledge.JPG

 

pitch 2: steep but with amazing features

267pitch2.JPG

 

looking up the final summit arete pitch

267pitch6.JPG

 

summit register contents

267poem.JPG

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