ericb Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Thinking about giving this a go this weekend. Is a #4 necessary to protect the crux offwidth.....seems like a long way to haul it for a single placement. Looks from photos like there might be a chockstone to sling. Would a #9 WC Hexentric work in Lieu? Assuming you run it out, what the biggest cam necessary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 you need nothing bigger than #2 - take a very, very light rack - coupla nuts, 2-3 cams, a bunch of slings including some long ones no snow/ice gear necessary either - the glacier's dead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 (edited) I agree with Ivan, my partner and I climbed it in 5 pitches, with a 60 m ropes bent in half. We had one 3 camolot, with we place once or twice. The crux is over before you know it. You can stem around it. If you are a competent climber, you should not lung a 4 in with you. I would also recommend NOT trying it car to car in a day. 2 or 3 days and relax and enjoy. I went car to car in 20 hours, big mistake, I was ruined. Snow and ice! I did in august last year, and you would not be able to get down from the last pass to where the glacier used to be with out crampons. Steep ice that never gets sun. About 100 feet of it. You can leave your ice gear at the bottom of the route so don’t worry about it. Also, we had one 60 m rope. If this is your idea as well, be prepared to down climb VERY exposed (but very easy) 4th class terrain to get to some of the anchors. Its was 10 repels and about 500 feet of down climbing to get off. Then 10 miles to the car. Have fun. Edited September 20, 2006 by kevbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 Thanks.....we'd do a leisurely 3 days....with my only concern being summit day. It looks like we've got ~ 12 hours of daylight to play with, and from my survey of TRs, looks like ~ 1 hour from Col to ridge, 4-7 hours on route, plus descent and return to col. Many say it took as long to descend as to climb so figure 5 hours - we'd be doing single raps. Sounds like a 12-13 hour day if all goes well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 (edited) How many people are you climbing it with? If it’s just one other person. Try simulclimbing a lot of it. Seriously, I tied into both ends and my partner tied into the middle of the rope and climbed the entire route in about 2 hours. Then took 3 to get off. Bro, a lot of it is EASY 5.4 or so. You can simulclimb until the crux and then pitch it out. Just a thought! Either way, I’m jealous. Take lots of pics. Edited September 20, 2006 by kevbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 One partner climbing on a doubled 8mm x 60M - both very comfy on mid-fifth class....planning on simuling a lot of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 oh yeah, regarding that ow crux - you can skip the crack pretty much entirely by doing a face more or two off to the right and going aroudn it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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