Mt Triumph NE Ridge Beta

[ericb]

Thinking about giving this a go this weekend. Is a #4 necessary to protect the crux offwidth.....seems like a long way to haul it for a single placement. Looks from photos like there might be a chockstone to sling. Would a #9 WC Hexentric work in Lieu?

 

Assuming you run it out, what the biggest cam necessary?

[ivan]

you need nothing bigger than #2 - take a very, very light rack - coupla nuts, 2-3 cams, a bunch of slings including some long ones

 

no snow/ice gear necessary either - the glacier's dead

[kevbone]

I agree with Ivan, my partner and I climbed it in 5 pitches, with a 60 m ropes bent in half. We had one 3 camolot, with we place once or twice. The crux is over before you know it. You can stem around it. If you are a competent climber, you should not lung a 4 in with you. I would also recommend NOT trying it car to car in a day. 2 or 3 days and relax and enjoy. I went car to car in 20 hours, big mistake, I was ruined.

 

Snow and ice! I did in august last year, and you would not be able to get down from the last pass to where the glacier used to be with out crampons. Steep ice that never gets sun. About 100 feet of it. You can leave your ice gear at the bottom of the route so don’t worry about it.

 

Also, we had one 60 m rope. If this is your idea as well, be prepared to down climb VERY exposed (but very easy) 4th class terrain to get to some of the anchors. Its was 10 repels and about 500 feet of down climbing to get off. Then 10 miles to the car.

 

Have fun.

Edited September 20, 2006 by kevbone

[ericb]

Thanks.....we'd do a leisurely 3 days....with my only concern being summit day. It looks like we've got ~ 12 hours of daylight to play with, and from my survey of TRs, looks like ~ 1 hour from Col to ridge, 4-7 hours on route, plus descent and return to col. Many say it took as long to descend as to climb so figure 5 hours - we'd be doing single raps. Sounds like a 12-13 hour day if all goes well.

[kevbone]

How many people are you climbing it with? If it’s just one other person. Try simulclimbing a lot of it. Seriously, I tied into both ends and my partner tied into the middle of the rope and climbed the entire route in about 2 hours. Then took 3 to get off. Bro, a lot of it is EASY 5.4 or so. You can simulclimb until the crux and then pitch it out. Just a thought! Either way, I’m jealous. Take lots of pics.

Edited September 20, 2006 by kevbone

[ericb]

One partner climbing on a doubled 8mm x 60M - both very comfy on mid-fifth class....planning on simuling a lot of it.

[ivan]

oh yeah, regarding that ow crux - you can skip the crack pretty much entirely by doing a face more or two off to the right and going aroudn it