humbug spires?

[leearden]

I've been wanting to climb at the Humbugs for quite a while, but haven't found the Butte climbing guide yet.

 

I've heard rumors of car break-ins at the trailhead, is this a significant problem? Might it be too dangerous to leave a roadtrip-equipped vehicle for a day? Might I leave my valuable jewelry, rare eight-track collection, and our bikes at your house?

 

I like stunning features, sustained multi-pitches on imposing structures, and generally 9's 10's and 11's.... aside from the big spire, which routes should I look for?

 

any Beta offered will be richly rewarded by my partner and his karma angel, I'll try to kick in whatever I can.

thanks

arden

[powderhound]

Well you didn't look very hard. the new butte guide came out lasxt year and has routes for the humbug on it. Also the falcon guide for montana also has routes for the spires in it.

 

Try this: http://www.firstascentpress.com/butte-guide.html

 

 

Also keep in mind that these are kinda old school ratings. the crux on most routes are slab moves with quarter inchers. But the hike in is worth it, one of my favorite places to climb. I have never heard about car break ins. If you would like I am in bozeman and you can leave some stuff at my house for a couple of days. thinking of heading there this weekend.

 

As far as route beta goes for other spires it has been lost by the dirty sox club. Most have been climbed, but it is more of a walk around with you rack and see what looks good. On the main spire give scrouge a try that is supposed to be sustianed ten.

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Furthermore; If you are continuing on through misusola (sp) look up blogett cannyon.

[jlag]

i climbed here a few times when I lived in Missoula. Amazing place, backcountry rockclimbing with really good rock. Never heard of any car break-ins, but you never know.

 

Best route there is Mutt and Jeff, multi-pitch 5.9. Couple of other good 5.8-5.9 trad/mixed stuff. I did Scrooge, good friction climbing, pretty stout. Just a really cool place to be with little traffic.

[Argus]

I've never heard of any break-ins there. Mutt and Jeff is sweet as jlag said, but it's 5.8, not 5.9. I've heard that the southwest ridge is really good as well. It shares the first pitch of the M&J and then goes to the right of the cyclops eye. It is 5.8 as well. Tiny Tim is good, but it's clipping bolts. Here is a topo of the south face.

 

http://www.firstascentpress.com/pdf/Humbug-sample.pdf

 

6 is Tiny Tim, 11 is M&J, and 12 is the southwest ridge.

[Bug]

 

Just don't tell anybody about it.