[TR] Mt. Washington- Southeast Ridge (III, 5.7) 9/

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Climb: Mt. Washington-Southeast Ridge (III, 5.7)

 

Date of Climb: 9/10/2006

 

Trip Report:

Sjwages and I both wanted to get out into the Olympics for some fun rock before the weather went away for the season, so off I was on the 5 AM ferry from Seattle. He met me at the dock and we drove up towards Lake Cushman and the start of the approach.

 

The trail up there was pretty well defined until you reach the steep gendarmes in the description where the traveled route (and flagging) heads left (S). Fortunately SJW had figured that out the last time, before he retreated due to a cut rope, so we headed right and were shortly in the bowl and then at the base of the route.

 

We pitched out the first three pitches, the first one was 5.6 past two bolts and a couple of gear placements to a bolted belay. The next one headed up either loose 3rd and 4th or easy 5th on the rock so I headed up there and avoided sending anything onto our rope. I topped out on a flattish bench on the ridge.

SJW headed up again, up another 5th class headwall to a belay that was almost on an identical bench. From there I lead out on a long simulclimbing block to the base of the Parapet at the top of the Shield Wall.

The guide mentions a 5.7 crack, but I didn't encounter anything like that, staying on the ridge crest the whole way (it's a ridge route after all).

From there a really short 5.3 chimney led to the top of the formation and a walk to the first rappel. It was supposedly 2nd class from there, but it seemed like mid-5th to get back on the ridge from the notch. From there it was more walking to the second rappel.

One more bit of chossy 5th led up to a flatter section.

From here is was walking and scrambling, then one more short easy-5th class bit to join the standard route and the scramble up to the summit.

Here's a shot of the final part of the ridge from the summit:

And the summit register:

Friendly snaffles at the top:

And one more shot of the top of the ridge:

 

It took us just over 6 hours to the top from the car, with about an hour on the approach, 5 hours on the route, and a short break at the base. It was actually a super fun climb for rock in the Olympics with decent protection through most of it (you just have to look a bit harder). I'd say it was on par with the W. Arete of Constance. It was way more fun than the standard route since there is basically NO SCREE anywhere except that bit on the summit block. We made it back down in an hour and a half to cold beer in the creek. Thanks Jacob for a fun climb!

 

Oh and all the pics are sjwages, the full size ones can be found in his gallery. I might get mine up some day if I ever develop the film (somebody give me a digicam for x-mas).

 

Gear Notes:

Blue alien through purple WC tech friend and a set of nuts. Smaller gear was more useful, plus some slings for horns n' stuff.

 

Approach Notes:

Follow the dscription in the latest Olympics guide book, don't follow the flagging after you hit the first gendarmes on the ridge.

[chesterboo]

OMB, Nice TR. I have been wanting to do that climb too. Did you encounter any 5.7 ground? It is certainly a nice area.

[bremerton_john]

I'm glad the new description worked out for you guys. The route difficulty can vary somewhat depending on your exact line of ascent. As you said, it is a ridge route and staying on the ridge generally affords the easiest way up. Moving onto the face in places can add some spice.

 

You guys were moving at a decent pace, making it up in only 6 hours. We put a conservative time range in the new book, partially because it took that long for a couple parties to do it, partially because of the route-finding on the approach. The poor flagging and abundance of climbers' paths near the gendarmes can throw you off.

 

Great job, and I agree it is a fun route and pretty good by Olympic standards.

 

John

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Yeah, I think you're right John, moving off the ridge would make it harder in spots, it just hard to tell where the good spots might be and where the choss is. My route finding radar just kept me on the crest (pro is more obvious there as well). I'd probably call the route we took 5.6, but I have trouble nitpicking like that, it was pretty much all 5.easy-fun. I took my climbing shoes and used them to the top of the shield wall, but next time I'd just use my hiking boots/approach shoes.

 

I didn't think we were moving particularly fast, but it did help that SJW had the approach down. I thought the new description was good though and the path was super obvious up to the first gendarmes. It would obviously take longer if you belayed every pitch or weren't pretty comfortable climbing that level. Finding pro and loose rock could sketch out a new 5.7 leader.

 

I'm sure it's seeing a lot more traffic since the new guide, but it is a fun route. :-)

[mountainmatt]

Nice job, looks like a nice day to be out in the Olympics