[TR] South Howser- Beckey-Chouinard 9/6/2006

[Winter]

Climb: South Howser-Beckey-Chouinard

 

Date of Climb: 9/6/2006

 

Trip Report:

Alzner and I climbed Beck-Ch on Wed-Thur of this week. After a start slowed by a delayed departure, a speeding ticket in Stanfield, and a flat tire in Radium, we finally made it to Applebee.

 

We hung out with Arnold from Squish who generously donated a full beer less than 5 minutes after our arrival at Applebee. Apparently his partner had bailed and left him with an "extra" beer. Never heard of "extra" beers before, but who were we to ask questions? Thanks Arnold! Things were turning around. Next morning we moved up further and then climbed the route the next day.

 

Ended up bivying 200 ft. short of the summit after a long day of climbing. Beautiful route in a stunning setting. We didn't see anyone else in East Creek or on route. Woke up after a chilly bivy, topped out and rapped off.

 

The final rap station was a 25' extension from a slung block. We both hung from the cord on 40 deg black ice, rerigged the rap and then rapped over the bergschrund. Touch down was sweet.

 

Conditions are still excellent, but the B-S Col was tough to descend with tennie runners, aluminum crampons and a full pack - getting pretty icy and broken up. By the time we left, the place was empty and weather looked like it may move in. Still, this is a great time to be in the Bugs and not too late in the season.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

alpine rack, axe, tennies, aluminum pons

[telemarker]

Congrats on a cool climb! When I, Kyle Flick and Steve Tift climbed it 2 years ago, we ended up rapping down The Big Hose because apparently we can't read, and that the true rap route lay more to rappelers left of TBH. Needless to say, it was a harrowing 4 raps or so down an icy, loose narrow gully.

 

Nice job! any pics?

[wayne]

Yo to my buddy Alzner! Will come for visit in 2 weeks. Nice workin guys, Wayne

[olyclimber]

damn, more cc.comers up in the Bugs. I'm gonna go next year, this route sounds fun.

[Gary_Yngve]

There's a bunch more CC.commers who were up in the Bugs who haven't posted their adventures here. I can think of 8 off the top of my head.

[Winter]

Sry no pics yet. Jeff is the A/V stud.

 

Telemarker, I've talked to other people that rapped the Big Hose as well. I'm pretty sure what happens is that once folks rap into the gully from the top of p15, they head straight up the first gully all the way to the ridge and end up North of the summit. If they rap down from there, the get the Big Hose. The route goes right into a second gully after the rap from p15 that tops out to the south of the summit next to the fixed rap stations. Easy mistake we almost made in the dark.

Edited September 11, 2006 by Winter

[ChestBeater]

There's a bunch more CC.commers who were up in the Bugs who haven't posted their adventures here. I can think of 8 off the top of my head.

 

That's special. Do you know Dean or Timmy?

[TeleRoss]

nice, that route is super classic

just wondering: were you planning on a bivy?

[Winter]

unplanned bivy due to our suckness. brrr. couple hours of toe rubbin and no worse for the wear. full harvest moon and no wind.

[Winter]

Leavin for another trip and finally got around to cleaning out the camera.

 

the crux

 

 

the climb

 

 

the crux

 

from the col

 

 

the post-climb scotch on the rox

 

[TeleRoss]