Dancing i.t. Light cleaning this Sunday

[chris_stolz]

Hey Squamish friction junkies--

 

In the spirit of Adopt-a-Crag, Don Serl and I are going to scrub and replace bolts on Dancing in the Light this Sunday (10th sept). We will be starting at about 10:00 A.M. so you would probably want to not climb the route that day as you will be going around two guys and their ropes etc.

 

chris

[jmace]

thx boys

[matt_m]

nice - i'll get on it when i get up there in oct

[bigwallben]

Did this one last fall. Didn't remember it being dirty. The 5.10 pitches down low were quite run, but when we hit the 11.a we found a bolts stacked closely together in comparison.

[G-spotter]

How about leaving a little bag of powdered zinc at each belay to let the winter rains do the cleaning for you

[chris_stolz]

OK folks. Don Serl and I cleaned this route today, fixed bolts, moved a belay etc. Thanks to Don who did most of the drilling and to Peder Ourom for lending us the drill. We removed one belay (but left one of its bolts) which lengthens one of the pitches and we now have belay-protector bolts on two pitches. Yes, it's still run-out and intense!

 

-- gear 6 draws and a .75 or .5 camalot.

-- Approach as for Snake, then scramble up right to a ledge after top of v-groove.

-- climb 1st pitch of Dream On-- the right-most route-- (10a) past 3 bolts to chains.

 

P1-- step right past gear placement, tricky move onto slab, up past 3 bolts to belay (10a/b)

P2-- loooong 10b pitch straight up.

P3-- crux #1: straight up 11a?

P4-- crux #2: step/mantle up and right (small nut or #00 Metolious says Don, I don't believe him), hard left traverse then up (11b)

P5-- easy 5.8/9 up to chains

P6-- 5.5 to broadway

 

Also thanks to the Access Society for getting folks out to Murrin on Sat. (If every climber in Vancouver or Squamish cleaned ONE old pitch every TWO years, we would have 200 more routes to climb!)

 

 

chris

[Don_Serl]

Hi. Clarification (cuz I wuz doing the bolting while Chris was brushing down below):

 

On P3"A", both bolts were left in place at the scoop 3/4 of the way up the pitch, altho the chains were removed. This makes "new" P3 close to 50m, whereas the original version had a plus/minus 35m pitch and a short one of 12m or so. You can still break the pitch if you're getting too much rope-drag or if the intensity is getting to you.

 

And you'll need more like 10 draws to climb it as the "long" pitch...

 

As for protecting the mantle on P4, for SURE a #5 RP drops in solidly - you just gotta look for the place - otherwise we'd have placed a protection bolt on the FA. And a not-too-inspiring #0 (not #00) Metolius TCU dicks in a bit above. At least with the new re-direct bolt 1m above the belay, if you fly and if your gear pulls (or you can't get it placed in the first place), you don't whang directly onto the belay!

 

(Besides, the mantle is more like a layback, and it's not as hard as it looks, maybe mid-5.10? Certainly not 5.11 - the crux is on the face above, with a big fat bolt right nearby.)

 

Enjoy,

 

Don