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Posted

I think that this is one of the most worthwhile beta threads.

Canada has some of the best areas and some of the most unpredictable and variable conditions. And it's a fairly long drive to arrive up there and sit for a week waiting for things to dry out.

For the Cascades close to home there is usually lots of beta and if it rains unexpectedly maybe all that's lost is a weekend and a few hours driving.

Thanks Joe.

Posted

After last weeks storm numerous parties were out and about in both the

Rockies and the Selkirks. Reports vary slightly but indicate that between 20

to 40cms of storm snow has remained at upper elevations (2500m and higher)

and especially on northerly aspects. Below that, the snow has largely

disappeared. The bulk of the precipitation hit the southern Rockies and the

more northerly areas received less snowfall. Most groups report about 20cm

of foot penetration. There is no mention of recent avalanche activity

however, there is enough volume of snow that wet sloughing is a concern on

sunny exposures later in the afternoon. While the avalanche danger is low it

is worth keeping in mind that high mountain terrain is unforgiving and even

a small slab could have serious consequences. don't rule out the possibility

of windslabs.

 

 

 

Travel is quite good on the glaciers but don't trust those new snow bridges!

Careful leaders, probing and a tight rope are essential. Most ice faces

have cleaned off nicely with a bit of snow climbing to offer relief from the

boney cold front pointing. Some water ice can be found, a new ice line was

climbed on Mt. Andromeda, but the low elevation ice is leaving fast with a

return to mild temps.

 

 

 

Cool temps and dry conditions should make for great alpine climbing until

the next precip arrives on Saturday or Sunday.

 

 

 

James Blench

 

ACMG/UIAGM

 

 

 

 

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Posted

September 29 - The snow from the last storm is slowly melting off the peaks in

Glacier Park, with some very nice autumn days. Some of the south and west

facing ridges are probably climbable, with pockets of snow on ledges and north

facing terrain. Sir Donald still has snow on the upper third of the west face,

and will have snow even lower on the north side of the NW ridge. Walking on

the snow covered rock on the approaches will be slippery (knee and ankle

tweaking conditions), and expect verglass if you are out early in the morning.

With remanants of the storm snow on the glaciers, watch for hidden crevasses

and thin bridges.

 

Daytime highs in the mid 20's in the valley in Revelstoke, making for some very

pleasant cragging weather.

 

The days are getting shorter, remember to pack a headlamp!

 

Jordy Shepherd

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

 

 

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

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