Western Canada/ September/Assiniboine

[jmckay]

 

The Assiniboine page

 

 

In the Assiniboine area today. Snow is down to the hut but Gmoser Highway

is almost dry. Sun exposed aspects are drying quickly up to the 9500 foot

level and should continue to do so over the weekend.. North aspects are

staying white.

 

Marc Ledwidge

Mountain Guide

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

 

 

 

Edited September 5, 2006 by jmckay

[jmckay]

Climbed Mount Sifton yesterday (Sept 2). Up the SE ridge, down the SW ridge. Just a trace of the recent storm snow on the north side of Sifton. An ice axe, crampons and a couple ice screws are helpful for getting off the toe of the Sifton Glacier, as it is bare ice and it rolls steeply.

 

Sir Donald is holding some storm snow on the north face (see photo). It is probably back in climbing shape, with pockets of snow on the north side of the NW ridge, but I haven’t been up there since the snow fell last week.

 

Jordy Shepherd

Mountain Guide

[jmckay]

 

 

Climbed Victoria from Abbotts pass and down Huber ledges today. Lots of drifted snow in sheltered spots but the ridge is mostly dry. Up to 60cms in drifts but average around 30cms. Tough 5cm crust with dry snow underneath. Spooky in places as it definetly hadn't settled as much as I had hoped. I didn't climb the snow face on Huber as it looked loaded and was in the sun. Lefroy and Glacier peak looked dark and unattractive after all the recent avalanche activity. Hungabee and Biddle are still plastered. Tarrant buttress is mostly dry.

 

The unsettled snow made the glacier travel tricky as the new bridges have no useful strength but are not sagging at all.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

 

Good old Mt Victoria Page

Edited September 5, 2006 by jmckay

[jmckay]

Marco Delesalle and I climbed Mt. Bryce's North Face this weekend. The

route is in excellent condition. The recent storm snow has gone through

some melt-freeze below 3000 m and makes for good travel. Above 3000 m the

face steepens and the snow turns to winter--dry powder--and is shallow

(10-15 cm) from sloughing and avalanching during the last storm and

somewhat facetted, but makes for excellent climbing. There is a lot more

rock on the face than the photo in Dougherty's book indicates, and the

bulges at the top of the face are not there--we took a direct line left of

the rock to within 10 m of the summit. We climbed the ice at night,

summitting just before dawn to minimize hazard both for the climb and the

descent.

 

I should add that the route is far more complex and involved than you

might guess from Dougherty's description and more challenging than any

other grade IV routes that either Marco or I have climbed. Imagine

beginning your trip with 2 hours of hard core bushwhacking (Dougherty was

accurate about this!) followed by a climb of Mt. Temple's E Ridge,

followed by an ice face about 40% longer and quite a bit steeper at the

top than Athabasca, and consider that there is not a single trace of any

previous human impact anywhere between the cutblocks and the summit, and

you will get a good idea of what's involved.

 

The South Glacier route is currently in poor condition with high hazard

and is not recommended. The couloir is least hazardous when the sun is not

shining on it (i.e. at night since it's south facing), when it is covered

with snow, and when temperatures are below freezing. Right now, with

overnight freezing levels below 3000 m and with the couloir covered in

rubble for its bottom two-thirds, it is not a good place to be at any time

of the day for climbing or descending.

 

You can get a good view of the top half of the couloir from the Bush North

road at about km 88.5. If you see rubble, don't do it. Even if you don't

see rubble, the bottom half is the worst area and you might not find out

until you're there how dangerous it really is.

 

For those interested in more information I'll put a trip report up later

today or tomorrow on the Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia,

http://bivouac.com, a site I highly recommend checking out and subscribing

to.

 

Regards,

Tom Wolfe

AAG

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[Alpinfox]

 

godDAMN that is a purty mountain.

[jmckay]

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Interior Ranges issued September 7th, 2006.

 

The snow that fell around August 30th is now just a memory except on high elevation north aspects. There was almost zero reported snow avalanche activity from this storm with the exception of some wet slides as it melted away.

 

It has been very unseasonably warm most days and especially most nights up high. In the past week overnight temperatures never went below 14c at the Conrad Kain Hut and it was 6c at the Abbott pass hut at 6am the one night I was there. It is "September" in name only.

 

The Rockies are back in good summer conditions. Glacier travel is reasonable again if you get a good freeze. There is lots of variation in the condition of various snow and ice faces. Some could be good objectives if you get some cold temperatures and others will be dirty and best avoided no matter what the temps are. Alpine rock routes are good, with the exception, again, of the steep high North faces. It is still too warm and way too dry for most of the big mixed routes at present.

 

Perhaps due to all the smoke in the air things sound very warm and spooky in the transitional areas in the Bugaboos and interior ranges. Reports of LOTS of rock and ice fall around bergschrunds on the Howsers and Bugaboo/ Snowpatch col and even some sustained rockfalls and major changes in boulderfields like the area between Lion's Way and Ears Between on Crescent. An alpine guides exam in the area was descending all week via the Snowpatch/Pigeon col rappels and Bugaboo glacier to avoid the Bugaboo/ Snowpatch col in the pm. The descents off the East faces of the Howsers sounds serious as you approach the ice with rock and icefall being observed all day. The West faces of the Howsers and the North ridge of the North Howser are in great shape but think hard about how you are going to get off those things. These same caveats would probably apply to similar terrain throught the Purcells and Selkirks. Having said all that, the stone is warm and dry and the forecast isn't too bad except for Saturday.

 

Choose your objectives carefully from home and don't be afraid to turn around if the long, hot and dry summer has left your route in really rough shape. It could be a great weekend for a route with low angle transitions between rock and ice as your plan A or at least as your plan B.

 

Bon Cours,

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

[jmckay]

Sept 7, 2006

climbed E ridge Cavell today. Route is in excellent shape. No crampons used, no ice axe used. 30ft of snow near summit still good steps but might want to have one axe in the party to cut steps in case it melts to ice.

Between summits can avoid all snow on the rocks on ridge.

Back side is totally dry with a good trail pounded into the scree.

Peter Amann

 

 

 

Peter Amann

Mountain Guiding

Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0

780 852 3237

www.incentre.net/pamann

[jmckay]

MOUNTAIN CONDITION FOR THE COAST MOUNTAINS. Sept 07/06

Generally conditions in the coast range are excellent.

Warmer than average temperatures are keeping lots of

people out in the mountains.

Some things to think about however are the conditions

that are left from this past hot summer.

Glaciers are generally getting harder to travel on,

with bare ice or firn on most slopes. Also Crevasses

are more troublesome right now with many classic

routes such as the North ridge of Wedge requiring more

effort and time to navigate than usual.

As well this hot summer has melted almost all snow in

the alpine, even pockets that usually remain in most

years. This has left a troublesome mess of perched,

dangerous blocks in many areas. Extra care should be

taken at the toes of glaciers and the base of rock

routes that usually are covered in snow or ice. The

lack of left over snow is also making hard to get

water in the alpine.

There have been a few serious accidents in the past

week. Remember to keep your guard up and keep playing

safe.

Craig McGee. IFMGA

 

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[jmckay]

Spent some time working in the Vancouver Island Alps this weekend. Climbed Triple Peak via it's Northern Route.

 

The 2wd (HC) logging road up Marion Main gets you to just over 700 m, and then a steep climbers trail gets you to a beautiful alpine lake (1050m) in an hour, followed by snow and rock to the top (just over 1500m). Amazingly, there is still a couple of good chunks of snow from last winter - mostly in acre size patches, starting at 1200m. To get to the rock climbing, the snow steepens and ends in a large moat. Need to be careful where you exit onto the snow as the most lip is overhanging quite a bit. A belay is recommended.

 

From there it's 5 pitches of 4th and low 5th basalt, breccias (really good quality), and the odd vertical heather slope to the top. My climbing mates tell me there is quite a nice view from the summit - coast to coast. If we hadn't of chosen the one day of fog and drizzle in the past month, I would've been happy to see that.

 

Brian Gould

Mountain Guide

[jmckay]

 

 

 

 

Up Watchtower Creek and Victoria North Glacier to the North Peak

yesterday. Creek entrance is about 100m uphill from the new "5 KM" sign

on the right side of the O'Hara road (on a tree). Large serac calving

off of the climber's right hand side of the glacier in the previous

several days, ran to the creek, spooky. Gained the glacier via three low

angle 5th class pitches up the ice tongue. 1st steep step passed on the

climber's left side via and ice/gravel grovel. Favored the left side of

things thereafter. Saw a house sized serac collapse on the right side

about half way up, exciting to watch from the left side. Finished up a

nice coulior to the Collier/Victoria col. Upper Victoria ridge in fine

shape. The most incredible broken spectre I've ever seen on the summit

at 4pm, 3-4 complete halos of rainbow around our big shadows. Descent

via the Plain of Six glaciers, some crevasse weaving, but not that bad

really. Lake Louise taxi service can pick you up from the Chateau and

drive you back to O'Hara parking for $35.00, great deal at the end of a

long day.

 

Happy trails

 

Barry Blanchard

Mountain Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Edited September 11, 2006 by jmckay

[jmckay]

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Interior Ranges. Issued september 15th, 2006.

 

Winter arrived with a wet slap in the face early Wednesday morning. Most areas have reported at least 20cms of snow above 2500m's and at even lower elevations in Rogers Pass and the Lake O'Hara area. Approximately 10cms on the highway at the Columbia icefields and in Icefall Brook. The big winner is the Conrad Kain hut in the Bugaboos with around 1 meter of wet storm snow as of this morning.

 

Winds were variable but lots of snow was moving around and we should assume big fresh windslabs are just waiting for a trigger up high. The storm came in with light winds so it is quite possible there is a layer of soft snow on top of the rock, ice and dirt and hard slabs above that in lots of places. I had to walk carefully around a big fat pillow well over 1m deep 10m's wide and 30m's long just below Abbotts Pass hut yesterday and it was spooky. The consequences of a ride in an avalanche right now would be very nasty. Lots of rocks to hit and open crevasses and bergschrunds to be stuffed into.

 

Glacier travel will most likely be poor this weekend. Conditions were as dry as I have ever seen by Tuesday, september 5th. Enough snow fell to cover crevasses but it will not settle in time to show where they are or to make effective bridges.

 

Alpine rockclimbing is probably a write-off for the weekend. I have 20cms of wet snow in my yard in Canmore at 11am so I can't imagine even Yamnuska will be dry any time soon.

 

To complete this cheery picture, count on a ugly period of rockfall if this snow melts significantly on Sunday and Monday.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

[jmckay]

The snowline is down to 1800m (below Grizzly Shoulder elevation)in Rogers Pass

this morning, and to 'The Burn' on Mount Macpherson south of Revelstoke.

 

There was 10 cm of snow in Balu Pass yesterday morning (Sept 14) on my way into

Nakimu Cave, and with last night's storm there is probably 20+ cm on the ground

today (Sept 15).

 

Conditions aren't very good for quartzite alpine climbing.

 

Jordy Shepherd

Mountain Guide

 

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[jmckay]

Just got out of the Bugaboos this morning. Just under

one meter of new snow at Applebee campground

(8000ft).....yes one meter!!!. 75cms at the Kain hut.

5 cms at the parking lot.

Craig McGee, Mountain Guide

 

 

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_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[jmckay]

Temps in the Rockies continue to be cool (cold for this time of year). Parks canada put out their first avalanche forecast for the year. Suspect wind slabs and possible facetting on N aspects in the alpine. I have had mail about conditions. They will improve but it is a much diffrent game then it was a week ago. Certianly a high level of caution required for the next little while.

 

Joe Mckay

Mountain Guide

CCMG

Edited September 17, 2006 by jmckay

[jmckay]

Hello,

 

Just finished 5 days of rock guiding in the Bow Valley. Here's what we found, If you are still thinking of rock climbing.

The Back of the Lake is in reasonable shape no snow. (Sept. 17+19th)

Gooseberry was dry. (climbed Sept.18th)

The climbing on Mothers Day was dry (climbed Sept.18th) however the traverse over to the Rogan's gulley descent had a lot of snow (up to knee deep). We stayed higher than the regular trail to avoid the edge of the cliff.

Wasootch is dry.(Sept.20th)

 

Have Fun!

 

Jesse de Montigny

Assistant Alpine Guide

Assistant Ski Guide

[jmckay]

Mountain Condition report for Sept 21/06

 

Not that many reports coming in lately.

A period of colder than average weather and

precipitation has amounted up to 20cm's of new snow

above 8000ft. Below 8000ft most new snow has melted

off.

The main concern right now is probably the new snow

that is thinly covering and hiding the late season

crevasses. It was a warm/ dry summer season and there

are many crevasses that are open were there usually

isn't.

Another concern in the next few days will be rockfall

with the forcasted warm weather coming this weekend.

Be aware when traveling under cliffs for the next few

days as the snow melts off.

 

This could be the last spell of good weather coming up

and the rock should dry off after a day or two, so

have fun.

 

Craig McGee, Mountain Guide

[jmckay]

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued Sept 19th, 2006

 

Nine grey and sloppy days in a row now in the alpine of the Rockies and Selkirks. Snowpack depths vary widely but expect at least patchy snow at treeline. 15-30cms snow in the alpine in the rockies and more in some interior locations. Generally it has been a relatively warm(hanging around 0c) and relatively calm week in the alpine with lots of cloud and only light precipitation.

 

Very limited observations. However, in the last four days at Lake Ohara I saw size 1-2 wet avalanches with a few rocks onboard coming out of steep terrain every time the sun came out. Good travel on the Opabin glacier today but I had no interest in wandering anywhere near big slopes like Lefroy or the west face of Hungabee.

 

Even moderate elevation rock routes like Castle and Louis are still a little white and probably very wet as of this afternoon.

 

Not quite cold enough for any reasonable waterfall ice or decent mixed climbing below 4000m's.

 

If you are desperate, there is probably some decent wet snow skiing up high somewhere. Stability is widley variable but definetly will deteriorate quickly in the sun and on warm days. The rocks and ice are just under the surface. Stick to mellow terrain or better yet, watch a good movie.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

[jmckay]

Friday sept 22nd I did the Wenkchemna, opabin pass trip. sunny with cloudy periods all day. Little snow on Wenkchemna pass but enough to make travelling easier. Tokumm glacierhas 20 to 40cm of snow on the ice, slots still visable no crampons needed to reach Opabin pass. 0 celcius at the pass 2590m at 4pm. Opabin glacier easy traveling on snow. Water ice starting to form on the big peaks. Looks like winter up high.

 

 

Todd Craig, Mtn guide

[Arc]

Jmckay has an unwanted section of our forum................................Yay!!

 

 

Well good then, this will keep him out of popular climbing conversations now.

 

 

 

One more thing........................................Aye!

[Chad_A]

Jmckay has an unwanted section of our forum................................Yay!!

 

 

Well good then, this will keep him out of popular climbing conversations now.

 

 

 

One more thing........................................Aye!

 

What the hell are you talking about?

[roboboy]

Jmckay has an unwanted section of our forum

 

NOT TRUE !

[Chad_A]

Jmckay has an unwanted section of our forum

 

NOT TRUE !

 

Agreed...keep posting, Joe

[Arc]

Just a small tiny insignificant fraction of our world here.

 

Now look down folks, see that little dot down there?---Thats how small.

 

 

 

 

 

.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[pup_on_the_mountain]

Wow Arc, take it easy dude!!

 

Several of us here follow the conditions in Canada. Thanks for posting Joe. Keep it coming .

[jmckay]

Climbed the NW face of Andromeda (mixed and ice features up to M5) via the Upper Athabasca Glacier.

 

-1C at 0430 at 2000m

 

The Athabasca glacier has little coverage (max 10cm of settled snow) to it’s apex with the slots mostly open and visible. On the face we witnessed a good melt-freeze cycle in full effect. Below ~2500m the water ice that had formed in the past week was on its way out while the upper face was frozen solid and intact late into the afternoon.

 

The snow on the upper Skyladder and summit ridge was 10-30cm deep and well settled with the wind and sun effect. Down the Andromeda-Athabasca Col. No slab formation on any part of the route and little to no snow available for transport. About 30cm’s of settled snow on the AA glacier.

 

No tracks leading up Athabasca via the AA glacier but our track will get you to where the route steepens.

 

The North face routes on Andromeda (A-strain, Shooting Gallery, North Bowl) look snowy and icy. No cornice formation has begun above the Andromeda Strain.

 

Rob Owens

Alpine Guide