[TR] torment-forbidden traverse- 8/7/2006

[skyclimb]

Climb: torment-forbidden traverse-

 

Date of Climb: 8/7/2006

 

Trip Report:

Its still good to go....traverse is mostly ice... moats and shrunds are manageable

Pretty classic route in a cascades sort of way

 

Gear Notes:

should of had a screw or two

[skyclimb]

pictures in gallery

[layton]

were you up there on monday?

[skyclimb]

Naw, Friday and Saturday for the climb... driving through Leavenworth on Thursday I was wondering if you were in the neighborhood....

traveling Band

[layton]

i came in for the second shift saturday night.

[Kyle_Flick]

Skyclimb,

We were up on Torment on Sat. morning around 10:00 am and thought we saw someone soloing two nobs over on the ridge traverse. Good job completing the traverse. We were surprised how precipitous the first section of the ridge traverse is and figured we'd need bivy gear to complete the whole thing. Any more beta? E.g., Did you rap to the northside from the notch below Torment to bypass the gendarmes and regain rock on the next major nob?

[Kyle_Flick]

Don't answer that. I returned the following weekend (8/12-13)and bypassed the schrund on the north side of the east ridge of Torment, by a single 100' rappel. Don't need screws or a second tool. Avoided any steep snow thereafter by staying on the ridge crest as much as possible.

Amazing exposure!

[DirtyHarry]

Nice, Kyle. Good job tagging that one on the 2nd effort

[goatboy]

Were you by yourself? Did you rap off a bollard?

[Kyle_Flick]

Goatboy, Thanks for the earlier PM. We slung a flake on the rock on the right side (looking down).

Pete, Still can't get over you guys doing that traverse car to car in a day.

[goatboy]

You're welcome. Nice work getting that route done -- one of my favorites! No real need for a bivy on this one, in my opinion -- though I can't imagine a prettier place to do so!