Adams solo ski or climb?

[JoshK]

Hey all. I'm looking to do something solo on mount adams this friday afternoon through saturday. Since I'm soloing I'd like to stay away from the glacier routes. North ridge looked decent (will it still be mostly snow at this point?) for a solo climb. I was also thinking of skiing the south side but not sure what conditions will be like now. Any advice?

 

thanks!

[mattp]

It is a long way around the mountain from the bottom of the south route back to a trailhead for the N. Ridge. Check out the SW Chutes, a route I have skied in July and August several times and which should still be "in shape." It is a big drop, though, and you'd want to hit it on a warm day so that the chutes will be soft enough that a fall wouldn't be unstoppable. If you are going for an overnight, you can camp below the Avalanche Glacier moraine, and climb up via the Chutes themselves or head uphill and right to join the regular S. route for the climb from the lunch counter to the false summit.

[JoshK]

Hey matt, thanks for the info. I just realized I should have clarified a little better. I planned on either climbing the northside *or* skiing the south side, not carrying over or anything like that. :-)

 

Looks like the weekend this weather is going to be quite warm, so the chutes seem like an option. Any clue where I could get some more info?

 

thanks again.

[mattp]

You really don't need much info. The route is noted in the Beckey Book. I belive the first ascent was made by Tom Hargis, a guy who has climbed the Davis-Holland/Lovin Arms route at Index unroped, but you needn't worry -- it is not a difficult climb. The only reason I would perhaps not climb up that way is because it is an unrelenting 3,500' slope, good for skiing but it would be quite a grind on the way up. Sit around at the false summit until, say, 2:00 pm and the chutes should be plenty soft. Drop to the West directly from the false summit. If the surface is still firm when you have dropped far enough to see the lake at the bottom of the slope, consider how safe it is to be on skis.

 

[b-rock]

For the chutes, park at Morrison Creek and head up to treeline from there. Stay right of the Avalanche glacier and the chute is pretty obvious running up to just left of Piker's Peak, with several small chutes funneling into a large on below. It's a good sustained 35 degrees for a couple thousand vertical. Alternatively, slog up the road to Cold Springs then up the South spur with the other people. Road conditions at http://svinet2.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation2002/current/mount-adams-climbing-report.shtml Fun ski, enjoy.

[btowle]

The USFS info here is out of date. You could drive to Cold Springs last weekend. You can't get into the main parking area, but you can drive to the trailhead. People were parking in every conceivable(and some that were not) spot.

 

First couple of miles is mostly dirt (to maybe 5900 elev). Then mostly snow until about the Lunch Counter where there are rock bands to cross.

[jesse]

2:00 PM is too late to leave the false summit. I skied this line in similar weather (it was 98 when we got to back to Hood River). We began skiing at 11:00 AM and had a good combination of edgeable presoftened corn at the top and still supportable turns near the bottom. Remember it is a 5000 foot run, so you've got to dial your conditions for the whole thing. Only if you are afraid of falling and sliding to your death should you wait so long the that the snow becomes soft enough to rule out such slides.

[mattp]

quote:

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Originally posted by jesse:

Only if you are afraid of falling and sliding to your death should you wait so long the that the snow becomes soft enough to rule out such slides.

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That was exactly my point, Jesse. I don't know Josh's skill level, but I do know that if one were to slide down that entire slope unarrested they would probably end up dead. It is only an intermediate level ski run, and when soft this is not much of a concern, but when I give advice over the internet to somebody I have never met, I figure it is a good idea to advocate prudence.