Double/Half Rope as Single on glaciers

[jmace]

A reverso I thought, not an ATC..?

 

if she was using a twin rope on a reverso...then she was using the device in a way the manufacturer never designed it for as it says only for half or single ropes.

[dinomyte]

Someone from this thread said she was running a reverso. I could find no mention of that in the report. In fact, the eye-witness says that HE was running a reverso.

 

He explained that the ranger's report noted the cause as: "improper ATC device was used in conjuction with the twin rope."

 

Of course, some people use "ATC" synonomously with several devices.

 

Her death was certainly tragic, but there is no doubt that there are several things she should have done. Hope we can learn from it.

[jmace]

ya I just read that as well, weird that people dont know that what they are using is a belay device and that an ATC, Figure 8's, Reverso's...are types of those.

 

I cant believe the Ranger would say that, unless I am completly mistaken on this terminology.

[RogerJ]

The story is very sad.

 

I used a Mammut Revelation (9.2) wiht a standard ATC once and it was enough to convince me that these ropes (1/2 or single) with smaller diameters than say 9ishMM required a specialized device like a reversino or bugette.

 

-r

[ericb]

Agreed that the thread was a little vague on the type of device, but it looks like experience has shown at least a few that despite the fact that the reverso claims to be usable down to an 8mm half-rope, it's not a great idea without a backup. The article also mentions other contributing factors including no knots at the ends of the ropes....seems like a common thread in the last couple accidents. I don't what if any difference there would be performance-wise using a reversino to belaying a lead or follower, but my takeaway is that if I'm using my reverso to rappel on a skinny rope, best to put knots in the end, or use a friction knot back-up, or both.

[JohnGo]

In Craig Connally's new book, The Mountaineering Handbook, he suggests using a static rope for glacier travel. If all you are doing is being roped to prevent a crevasse fall, and not actually climbing on it, a static rope will naturally stretch less. The climber who pops through a crevasse will have a shorter fall, leading to easier extrication.

I have not tried a static rope for crevasse rescue travel practice, but it seems like a sensible idea to me.