Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
JAL

Double/Half Rope as Single on glaciers

Recommended Posts

A reverso I thought, not an ATC..?

 

if she was using a twin rope on a reverso...then she was using the device in a way the manufacturer never designed it for as it says only for half or single ropes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Someone from this thread said she was running a reverso. I could find no mention of that in the report. In fact, the eye-witness says that HE was running a reverso.

 

He explained that the ranger's report noted the cause as: "improper ATC device was used in conjuction with the twin rope."

 

Of course, some people use "ATC" synonomously with several devices.

 

Her death was certainly tragic, but there is no doubt that there are several things she should have done. Hope we can learn from it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ya I just read that as well, weird that people dont know that what they are using is a belay device and that an ATC, Figure 8's, Reverso's...are types of those.

 

I cant believe the Ranger would say that, unless I am completly mistaken on this terminology.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The story is very sad.

 

I used a Mammut Revelation (9.2) wiht a standard ATC once and it was enough to convince me that these ropes (1/2 or single) with smaller diameters than say 9ishMM required a specialized device like a reversino or bugette.

 

-r

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agreed that the thread was a little vague on the type of device, but it looks like experience has shown at least a few that despite the fact that the reverso claims to be usable down to an 8mm half-rope, it's not a great idea without a backup. The article also mentions other contributing factors including no knots at the ends of the ropes....seems like a common thread in the last couple accidents. I don't what if any difference there would be performance-wise using a reversino to belaying a lead or follower, but my takeaway is that if I'm using my reverso to rappel on a skinny rope, best to put knots in the end, or use a friction knot back-up, or both.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In Craig Connally's new book, The Mountaineering Handbook, he suggests using a static rope for glacier travel. If all you are doing is being roped to prevent a crevasse fall, and not actually climbing on it, a static rope will naturally stretch less. The climber who pops through a crevasse will have a shorter fall, leading to easier extrication.

I have not tried a static rope for crevasse rescue travel practice, but it seems like a sensible idea to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×