Serpentine Crack-Lib Bell question

[wayne]

Nelsons books have 2 different grades:

510+ and the new updated ones say 5.11+. Beckey sayes 10+ too. Anyone done the route and if it is 11+ crack, is it just desparate? How many large cams would you take? Thanks , Wayne

[pms]

hard to say the difficulty free, though it is a short section.

2 of the 4"-5" size might be enough, take 3 and you'd be golden. I remember hanging on my big cams so hopefully you or somone else can give us a good free rating. the next pitch is 4 or 5 star as I remember. I bet pp would rate it about 10.c

hey DC do you know this crack?

[DirtyHarry]

cams to 3.5". Its essentially a handcrack, but at a real akward angle.

[pms]

not even a 4" necessary? what about a free rating?

[DirtyHarry]

Maybe a 4 after you pull through the steep section where its easier, but the crux is probably 2 or 3 inch.

[gosolo]

I would rate it 10+ to 11- (old school). But like many cracks it is dependant upon hand size (I have big ones). For a person that has climbed many cracks (ie: IC type) it is not to difficult. Good route. I only had Friends at the time and a number 4 was the largest I had and it never felt like I wanted anything bigger than that. My guess is that the ratings (up to 11+?) reflect a lack of crack climbing experience on different rock at different areas around the country. If one has travelled a bit and experienced many cracks in the 10 to 11 range it is not too bad. I thought the climbing above the crux was quite good.