Double peak E. of Chinook pass

[medic566]

Does anyone have info on Double peak? This is the double summit peak just east of chinook pass summit? Only one reference to it in any book. Says a scramble to the lower N.W. peak and the a rap and some rock work ro the higher S.E. peak. What is some rock work? Does it invovle a lot of pro? Can it be soloed by a novice climber? Any bones you can toss me, greatly appreciated. Medic566

[erik]

make sure you bring two hard hats, tha area generally has some super crappy rock. typically if there is no 5th class mentioned then it is a nicel little 3rd or 4th class scramble. personally i would wait till it snows and just ski the area.

[Stefan]

Read Pack and Paddle for the August issue on page 15-16. Fred Beavon did it and gives more detail of how he did it. Where to pick up pack and paddle? You can either call them or I think there are copies at some REI's.

[iamjacktors]

I climbed it back in 97. Great little peak. We did a new route on the east face of the NE Peak - the huge steep wall you can see from the hiway. The rock was really good amazingly, but a little vegetated. Route starts in an obvious dihedral on the left side of the face and finishes on an amazing knife edge ridge near the summit - 6 pitches up to 10c. We easily downclimbed off the west side (maybe a little 4th class), so it can be soloed no problem. As for the SW Peak - didn't climb it, but it looks way easier than the NE - would be an easy solo. So no gear needed to just get up the peaks; for our route bring nuts, 2 ea. green - orange alien, 1 ea. #1-#4 camalot. Don't forget your nut tool to clean cracks and a helmet.

As for the approach - we went up the drainage to the north of the peak (can't think of the name right now, but has a main trail up it). You can't see the peak, but when it is just SW of you, there is an obvious gully across the creek the leads to the ridge just NE of the peak. Head around the left (South) side of the peak and climb the gully between the two for the easiest access. We went in early June and this was mostly snow, which made it quite easy. I'd recommend this approach over Becky's, as it is a little less devious. Either way it makes for a great day trip with great views and relatively good climbing for that area. Enjoy!