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[TR] Mushroom Tower, Big Kangaroo, Melted Tower- Standard 6/7/2006


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Posted

Climb: Mushroom Tower, Big Kangaroo, Melted Tower-Standard

 

Date of Climb: 6/7/2006

 

Trip Report:

Dallas and I climbed Big Kangaroo, Mushroom Tower and Melted Tower last Wednesday.

5390Kangaroo_Ridge_024-med.jpg

 

Kangaroo Ridge from hwy 20

 

The approach was straightforward; we bore left to pick up a snow filled gully that leads to the upper bowl. It took us about 1 1/2 hours to reach the start of the climbing on Mushroom Tower. One pitch of mid fifth-class brought us to the expansive summit. The required rap is off of two ¼ bolts that looked like they could have been installed by the first ascentionists.

 

5390Kangaroo_Ridge_0091-med.jpg

 

Mushroom Tower from Big Kangaroo

 

A short traverse and some scrambling led us to the summit block on Big Kangaroo. One mid fifth class pitch up a slab lead us to the knife-edge summit, where a single ¼ bolt awaited.

 

5390Kangaroo_Ridge_014-med.jpg

 

The traverse on Big Kangaroo

 

5390Kangaroo_Ridge_019-med.jpg

 

East face of Big Kangaroo from Melted Tower

 

Another traverse left and down with one rap over a buttress took us to the approach gully for Melted Tower. An interesting 5.7 pitch led to the summit. A good anchor consisting of a slung tree for a rap station was a relief.

 

5390Kangaroo_Ridge_021-med.jpg

 

Melted Tower

 

Consider taking a bolt kit to back up or replace the antique gear up there. There is allot of elevation gain for not much technical climbing, but no waiting lines either. The technical climbing can be done with a 30 meter rope.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, light alpine rack, 40 meter rope. Shoulda had bolt kit.

 

Approach Notes:

Mostly snow. Good early season to avoid scree.

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Posted

Thanks for the report -- very interesting choice! These are the first pictures of some of these formations I've seen from people climbing them maybe ever.

 

Would you do it again?

Posted

Yes I would. The views back to Liberty Bell and Silver Star were great, and no crowds to deal with. Dallas has been up there five or six times.

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