Mt Hood Beta appreciated

[ColoradoDave]

A few questions from an out-of-state'er. I am considering a climb up Mt. Hood via the Cooper's Spur route next week. I understand the road is closed at Inspiration Point and will check progress on it being clear before leaving Saturday.

If it is not clear, When is the realistic end of season for that route ?

Would it be reasonable to postpone until the week of July 3 ?

Thanks for any advice.

[ivan]

the route will be open till at least mid july i'd imagine this year- booting in from the start of the road only adds 2 hours or so to the trip - recomend you bivi at tie-in roc to sop up the ambience

[billbob]

Talked w/ the Ranger station yesterday, asking when road to Cloud Cap campground would open,,, this is the access rd you want to get up to Cooper Spur. They said 2-4 weeks depending on when the snow melts. They dont want huge ruts on the 9 mile long dirt road from vehicles driving up when the ground is still soft. Check your map - this road gets you closet and there is a decent camping area.

[ColoradoDave]

Thanks for the replies. Since my partner has a trick knee, a long approach with a heavy backpack on a road doesn't work too well. I think we are going to re-schedule for the 4th. or so.

A bivy at tie-in rock sounds good then. Am I looking at a low temp in the 40's or so ?

[ivan]

no big pac needed - just a light tent and bag (or no tent at all - you can bivi on the ground) - temps won't be bad at all - should be able to get away w/ 35 lbs or less (no rope or pro needed for cooper spur - bring a 2nd tool or pole for smoother soloing

[Off_White]

Tie-in Rock bivy is a great idea, very nice location. Since you're coming from out of state, there's no sense in putting your head down and going as fast as possible, take the time to really enjoy the setting.

 

I trust you both have decent snow skills? The spur is convex, and parties have fallen, lost control, and slid over and down the steeper north side with fatal consequences. The time I was there it developed that slightly unnerving soft glop layer over rock hard snow, but I think that was much later in the season. It's not a difficult route, but it does merit paying attention.

[ColoradoDave]

Well, we summited via Cooper Spur on the 6th. It was great. We bivy'ed at the site below Tie in Rock and headed up from there about 5 AM. and summited about 7:30. Snow was hard on the way up and acceptable on the way down.

 

Thanks for everyone's beta. If you're ever in Colorado and need beta or a partner, Email me at david.pneuman@sun.com

[bonathanjarrett]

A buddy of mine and I went up to climb the Sunshine Route on saturday. Not expecting to get around the 'schrund and not expecting to make a true summit attempt, we left camp at 4:30. After poking around up high for a while we descended around 9:30. At that point in time the snow conditions were still reasonably good. To complete the route one would either have to traverse a long way west or expose themselves to rock and ice fall. I suppose that the route is still doable. Call it laziness, but we just didn't feel either option spoke to us that day. The day was just so beautiful that we just felt like going for a stroll.