Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
rleary

WC Technical Friends vs. BD Camalots

Recommended Posts

Instead of BD vs WC, BD vs DMM. DMMs are lighter and can be clipped short.

 

DMM doesn't make larger than #4, so go with WC for #5 and #6.

 

My thoughts exactly smile.gif Inexpensive, very solid (full strength to the smallest size), nice and light, can clip short (either the stem, or the extended sling which can save you a draw on occasion). #1-#4 are fantastic! I don't care too much for the sizes smaller than #1 though, the action isn't quite stiff enough for my taste.

 

All in all, DMM Shit rockband.gifrockband.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have DMM 1.75-4 and use Aliens and TCUs for smaller sizes. My handsize pieces are doubled up with pre-C4 Camalots (1,2,3).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DMM Cams are good, but still not in the same league as BD IMO. I have a couple med size ones (green, blue, silver) that I use as doubles or triples in those sizes. Still, when in a tight spot I always reach for the BDs first. I used to have a tiny purple one and I wasn't as fond of it.

 

Regarding link cams, I have both and am amazed at the places they will go. The action is great on em. Only major drawbacks are weight and spring stiffness at the upper end of their useable range (I feel like they walk a little more than others when using their outer lobes. Both sets of inner lobes are much less prone to walking).

 

No cam I've used gives me the warm fuzzies like 0.5 to 3 BDs .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DirtyHArry:

I never use a cam that is smarter than I am.

 

Translation: I climb on only pasive pro

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×