Anyone climb the Emmons glacier this weekend?

[pete_a]

Just looking for some beta and how the glacier is looking. The official park website says that a route up the Emmons is established, but I'm curious if there are any particular difficulties...really icey? any really bad looking snowbridges? how skiable is the route looking?

Many thanks.

 

Anyone think the Ingraham glacier might have softer (ie: more skiable) snow conditions than the Emmons because it gets more direct sun exposure?

 

[ 06-03-2002, 04:16 PM: Message edited by: pete a ]

[JasonG]

Came down it this weekend after Liberty Ridge. The Emmons is in great climbing shape with only one sketchy crevasse crossing (there is probably a good way around it-we were tired). Skiing would be quite icy unless it was a really hot day. We talked to some skiers that said it wasn't very good and really icy. We wore crampons down to about 9500' even though we didn't come down till the afternoon.

[pete_a]

hey Heinrich,

 

Thanks for the info. I'm still not sure if I'll give it a go this weekend or not...kinda keeping my fingers crossed that the route will get a little new snow on Thurs and Fri and be in prime condition this weekend...but I try not to get too optimistic when it comes to climbing plans on Rainier.

[nwclimb]

Did Emmons this last weekend. Route was in great shape, I thought, and the weather was awesome to boot. We hopped over the 'shrund at 13,500' - it wasn't that bad. There was about a five foot high ledge we had to hop up with a 3' wide crevasse opening below. We just leaned across, planted a picket, and pulled ourselves up. On the way down, we just hopped down it (should have belayed - one member tweaked his ankle doing that - not a smart move at 13,500' on Rainier). The established boot track went up the Corrider then traversed back and forth between 11,500 and 13,500 until the 'shrund. If you veer left at the top of the Corridor (~11,300), you can go straight up a big bowl. Steep, but *very* direct. At top of bowl, go left around the two seracs to find the easier 'shrund crossing. On descent be very careful descending the bowl. Snow condition + slope aspect didn't lend itself to reliable ice axe arresting should you fall. The route *is* starting to open up more. Snow bridge just outside Shurman will most likely be gone by next weekend, and I punched through a snow bridge on the descent around 4:30P on the established route.