Rainier Solo & Furher Finger

[savaiusini]

TG,I'm pretty sure you're supposed to submit a letter/climbing resume to the Park Superintendant someweeks before your climb and then they keep it on file for future attempts. You might send an email to Mike Gauthier who is the lead climbing ranger up there and get his thoughts. If you don't already have his email, I'm not going to give it out, otherwise you can try:

Paradise Climbing Ranger StationClimbing information and permits.Tel. (360) 569-2211 ext. 2314

Open May 3 - June 107:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m. Friday - Sunday

June 11 - September 27:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m. Sunday - Thursday6:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m. Friday & Saturday

Generally the Finger ought to be in shape by mid-May; as long as we a string of some clear days and sun-baked slopes followed by cold nights to allow the slope to freeze-up real good.

[goatboy]

Or, you might search for Gauthier's email which he has made public knowledge on this website:

See Profile

My sense is that he is a contributor to this website and wouldn't mind the question.

[Terminal_Gravity]

Thanks

[Dru]

I know what Fuhrer finger is... but "Furher [sic] Finger" sounds kinda pornographic.... Fur her??

[Mike_Gauthier]

tg

the ff route is probably in great shape right now... the route has better snow cover in the early season (i.e april, may, june). this makes the climb more straight forward. by late july or august, it starts to get icier and more melted out. i believe that the route lasts a bit longer than mid may, but savaiusini is a big time skier and i wonder if he's considering the ski conditions too? those can fall out of favor earlier some years (though probably not this year)... also consider that the rock fall hazard increases as the summer progresses. i recommend wearing a helmet.

savaiusini is right about getting a solo permit. mail your request to the NPS at: Mount Rainier National Park, Tahoma Woods, Star Route, Ashford, WA 98304, Attention Solo Climbing Permit. you can also call the paradise old station at 360 569 2211 ext 2314 and leave a message. include your address (or fax number if you want to speed things up) we'll send you a form to fill out and return. if you can call back in may when the ranger station opens on the weekends, someone will probably be able to give you more accurate route conditions.

[Terminal_Gravity]

Does anybody know what the specific criteria are that is used to determine weather or not a permit to solo is granted. Or does anybody have any tricks to help get one.

Also, how early are Furher Finger conditions most likely to be favorable.

Thanks in advance

[Alpine_Tom]

It sounded to me like tg was asking whether there were specific criteria that the Superintendant applied before deciding whether to allow you to do a solo climb. Or, are they granted as long as they get the letter?

[Terminal_Gravity]

quote:

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Originally posted by Alpine Tom:

It sounded to me like tg was asking whether there were specific criteria that the Superintendant applied before deciding whether to allow you to do a solo climb. Or, are they granted as long as they get the letter?

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Yes; Alpine Tom that was my question. My climbing resume is very long but not really all that impressive, nor can I give any personal references from any super stars. (I have, however, spent a fair amount of time soloing). So... I was hoping to find out what sort of info the superintendant wanted so that I could abridge my resume accordingly. But at this point it is all moot to me. I got word back today that I have been approved for soloing any route.

 

Thanks, Mike G for the info and BTW I think your guide book is excellent...it is a gem in a sea of shit. IMO

[Mike_Gauthier]

alpine t and TG, i see your point, i misunderstood the question. (one of the problems of communicating over the internet...)

fyi for everyone... the superintendent doesn't actually approve the solo permits... he designates that responsibility to people like steve winslow and me. as you can imagine, he's a bit too busy to pour over every solo climb request. for an experienced mountain person, getting a solo climbing permit isn't difficult. reasonable requests almost always get approved.

have a great trip on the mountain.