TR Mt. Constance

[Zach]

A friend Dan and I climbed Mt. Constance last weekend by a combination of routes. We approached from the S fork of tunnel creek. We had bluebird skies on Sunday and a full moon on Saturday night. Some of the traversing sections were scary on the way down. They were covered in slushy snow that had melted out quickly when the sun hit it. We climbed a one pitch variation of the finger traverse on the way back. It was around 60-75 feet of 5.7 on decent rock, no protection though, but that didn't matter as we didn't have a rope anyway. Dan dropped his axe descending from the summit block. Luckily it landed on a ledge 25 feet down and he was able to downclimb and get it and then crawl through a tunnel to a downward sloping ledge from which he was able to regain the ridge crest. It didn't look too fun.

 

This is a long approach. You have to gain and loose close to 2000 feet before you actually get to the mountain not including the trail to tunnel creek shelter.

 

Does anyone have any information on the North fork approach? It looks like it may be easier especially in early season or winter.

[olyclimber]

Nice work Zach. Did you take any pictures?

[Zach]

Dan took pictures I'll post them as soon as I get copies. Can you post video in the gallery?

[olyclimber]

no, but PM me and we can talk about how to get it on the server so you can share it.

[Norman_Clyde]

So, do you think Tunnel Creek is a less laborious approach than the Lake Constance trail plus 4 miles of road?

[mountainmatt]

Nice work! Looking forward to seeing some pics

[AJScott]

Saw your tracks on sunday, we climbed/skiied route 1a (n. chute) Trail is snow free right up to the lake. We used the Constance lake trail, and used bikes for the road which was nice for the way out. We climbed to the top of the snow, but I was being a pansie because rain was starting up down the valley and I wanted to head out. We were about 100ft. under the false summit where we skiied down from.

 

 

At some point around the lake I lost my Ice axe, if anyone reads this and decides to head up there could you keep an eye out for it? reward-

[bremerton_john]

Does anyone have any information on the North fork approach? It looks like it may be easier especially in early season or winter.

 

George, JohnnySnakeSlayer and I went up Constance this weekend via route 5, North Fork Tunnel Creek. It's about 5-6 hours from the car to the tarn at 4100 feet, then 6 hours from here to the summit (right on the book's estimate). JohnnySnake and I went up the approach of 5B a few weeks ago and even though it involves going up and over Cunningham Pass and losing that elevation, the South Fork route involves a bit less bush-wacking generally. The North Fork route does have a remnant trail that someone flagged in 2003 from the road-end to the drainage cutoff, but there is still work to be done getting up from here. The nice thing about this approach is that there really is no elevation loss. I think either 5 or 5B would be decent when there is significant snow to assist on the scree chute(s). Which is the easier approach? Perhaps the South Fork but only slightly.

 

For the most part we were able to dodge the precipitation this weekend, but there was several inches of fresh snow in places on the summit ridge this Saturday.

 

John

[David_Parker]

My experience 3 years ago might help a tad....

 

Misadventure in N. Fork Tunnel Creek June, 2003

 

This was supposed to be my Warrior Cirque traverse. I think I was delusional! My plan was to approach via N. Fork Tunnel Creek, ascend the Papoose and then start traversing the ridge over the Squaw, Brave, over both summits of Warrior and then over Cloudy Peak and out Alphabet ridge topping off with Infinity tower. It looked doable on the map. I got messed up from the beginning because Friday night I approached 2.5 miles up S. fork Tunnel Creek and slept in the shelter. So Saturday began at 5:00 am by hiking 2.5 miles back to the car and finding the proper start up N fork. The forest service road shown on the Gazateer is abandoned, so it's a longer hike up the seldom-used trail towards Charlia lakes. I expected slightly better trail because this is an alternative "approach" to Constance, but I don't think too many climb from this side ever. About 3 miles in I left the trail l and crossed the river and made the approach up NF Tunnel Creek which reminded me a lot of my bushwhack up Access Creek last year. There were very few signs of traffic in the area. Well it's way too rugged on that Warrior Arm and the notches between summits are gnarly, so after breaking out above tree line I ended up just climbing up snow fingers as much as possible and a final ridge scramble to Desperation Peak which is just above Crystal Pass. Nice view of Warrior, Inner Constance, West Ridge route of Constance and all the way down Avalanche Canyon to Lake Constance. I was carrying bivy gear, stove, 8 mil rope and a medium rack. I concluded that from my position the only realistic way out was back the way I came, so I headed down again. The schrund on the glacier?/snow slope was huge and I was not sure I could get across, but the far west end was a small enough gap that I could jump. My plan was to then just bivy when I got to the bottom of the open slopes before going back into the forest. But it was only 6:00 so I decided to keep going. I didn't relish the idea of sleeping in the forest with mosquitoes so I kept going into the dark and I made it back to the car around 10:30pm and in my bed at midnight. This trip can be improved I think if you approach all the way to Charlia Lakes and start up Alphabet Ridge and go the reverse direction. Like I've always said though, the Olympics are not a range to be underestimated. It's very rugged and remote out there!