SLC cragging recommendations

[dt_3pin]

I'll be in SLC for a few days later in the month, and am looking for some cragging recommendations. I'd like to minimize driving and maximize climbing, and am mostly interested in moderate trad routes (<5.10), but also like to check out quality sport routes or bouldering.

 

If you had 2 1/2 days in the SLC area, what would be on your ticklist?

 

Thanks

[verticalwanderer]

SLC climbing is awesome......I just moved up to Seattle from there so I am a little partial. You could easily fill 2 1/2 days of climbing really great routes without driving more than 30 minutes out of the city, so minimizing driving isn't an issue. I would stick strictly to the cottonwood canyons (Big & Little) and if you are looking for Trad, spend more time in little. There are loads of fun multipitch trad lines that fit your criteria.

 

A few that I would check out up little cottonwood are:

-Pentapitch, 5.8, 5 Pitches (While you are up there climb Sasquatch, 5.9)

 

-Schoolroom, 5.6-5.12a, A1 depending on the variation, about 5 pitches, again depending. Also pretty much anything you end up climbing on the Gate Buttress will be fun.

 

-The Thumb, 5.8, about 9 pitches, I like the indecent exposure variation best. This is a full day, but is awesome. Big wall and big exposure. Be sure to climb the summit pitch....first move looks scary stepping over 500' of air, but it is only 5.5....lots of poeple skip this pitch for some reason.......maybe 5.5 seems too easy to be fun?

 

Up big cottonwood you will find mainly sport routes, but the are some notable Trad exceptions:

 

-Steort’s Ridge, 5.6, 3 pitches of great fun

 

-Anything on Mule Hollow wall, 5.6-5.8, 4-5 pitches, about an hour approach, but you will have the entire wall to yourself

 

-Goodro’s Wall, 5.10c, one of my all time favorites

 

-Touch of Teflon, 5.10ish, 1 bolt near slabby start, all the rest gear…..Lots of good sport near there too.

 

A general note, climbing grades in LCC are stout....about like Index Town Wall grades....hardcore old dudes put them all up back when the grading scale stopped at 5.10, so start on something a few grades below your limit to test the waters......BCC is pretty standard as far as grades go.

 

Let me know if you need any other info…..

[gosolo]

vertwanderer had some good stuff.

 

In LCC on the Gate Buttress I would highly recommend Satans Corner 5.8, one of the best in the west. Also on that cliff is Bushwack crack to the Hook, about a 3 pitch 5.8.

 

The Coffin 5.9, also one of the finest granite cracks of that grade anywhere. These are shorter affairs.

 

At less than 5.10 you are definitely better off sticking to LCC and BCC. AF starts at about 5.10 and those are hard to find...

[Distel32]

plus fantastic granite bouldering all throughout LCC

[kevinoregon]

Don't forget about all those long beautiful friction climbs in LCC up on the Fin 10a-11. The S-Crack (8) leading up to the S-Direct (9+)is a fine outing too.

[gosolo]

Try looking at mountainproject dot com. It will have many of the routes like this one (The Coffin):

 

I just had to post it cuz it reminded me of old times. I grew up just 2-3 miles from that cliff

[Lix]

Yeah, I climb that thing after work during the powpow season. It's like, soooo sick. I think the Wilson-Love on the Sail is hardest 5.8 anywhere.

[mneagle]

Here's a great day: take crescent crack (classic 5.7) then the 5.9 slab variation to the top; rap off back side practically at the belay spot for the coffin. Climb the coffin 5.9 and up the second pitch 5.9 on the right side. Then rap back to base with 2 rapells while looking at the bolted 10a on the right side of the coffin. If you don't mind the tenuous fist 20 feet then lead it, otherwise TR it from the bolts at the top of the first pitch.

 

These are all great pitches and close together.

 

I alson agree that the Thumb is a classic route.

 

If you want to sample the best climbing in Utah, consider a hike up to Lone Peak and take the Vertical Overhangs 10a variation on the summit wall or Out of the Question 10b on Question Mark Wall. Not sure if snow will be gone however.

 

A 2 hour drive gets you to Maple Canyon if you want to climb cobbles.