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DPS

Little Tahoma in Winter

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I have a question about Little Tahoma. The Beckey guide indicates an approach from Paradise that follows the route to Camp Muir, but departs at some point to make a traverse to the west side of Little Tahoma. Has anybody done this approach and if so, where does the approach diverge. Is there a better approach in the winter? How would it be to approach from Camp Muir? I imagine one would have to lose some elevation and drop below the cleaver? Thanks.

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dps,

If you are shooting for the West Ridge.. go to Muir. I have made one (failed) attempt at this route. As far as losing "elevation and dropping below the cleaver",you never even get close to it, as soon as you get thru Catherdal Gap cross the Ingraham and your basically there. If you are looking at doing just the standard route up Little T, I really don't know what would be better, going thru Muir or crossing the Cowlitz.If you are shooting for the West Ridge, good luck and take your steel nut sack with you, your gonna need it. It is a great line, I belive Fred B at one time refered to it as the last unclimbed natural line in the area. I had the "fortune" of spending my high school days in Yakima and have heard the tale of the first ascent directly from Matt Christensen and gave it a shot myself in about '87. Man ... loose BS, difficult to protect.. you name it, it is one of those that needs the ice and snow to hold it together while you dance with death

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Climbed Little T in winter 1983 from Paradise. This is an easy 2 days. Camped below Anvil Rock. The lower Cowlitz is heavily crevassed and just below you is one of the biggest icefalls on Rainier....don't drop too low if it socks in!

The Ingraham isn't as bad and the notch up onto The Whitman Glacier is easy. Watch for avalanche danger on the upper Whitman. Easy gullies lead to the spectacular summit ridge (which was corniced and icy). The final block is 3/4th class in summer, but coated with rime ice in winter. Takes a little nerve. Lot's of exposure here.

This is a cool climb in winter!

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Thanks for the beta. We are interested in the North Face. Just trying to think of winter climbs to do since it has been too warm for the lower elevation peaks.

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