Emmons/Winthrop Beta

[hollyclimber]

Does anyone have anything to add on the conditions on the Emmons/Winthrop to what the rangers have to say here?

http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/climb_cd.htm

I am planning to go up this route this weekend. We are going to have to camp low (Camp Curtis) so I won't get a good preview of the route myself like I would if I was going up to Sherman.

[fredrogers]

Any one have any recent beta for conditions on this route? Headed up this weekend and would like any info beyond the report on the NPS site.

Thanks.

[Ron_R]

I did the route with 4 others on 6/30-7/1. 4 of us summited with the 5th staying in camp with a bad head cold. The route is in very good shape. We stepped over a lot of smaller hidden crevasses that someone had poked a leg into. This, of course, is more of a hazard coming back down as the snow has softened by then. Around 13800 ft (or higher), the trail winds thru some pretty gnarly crevasses, but the bridges were all very sound a week ago. I guess that this is actually the summit bergschrund. Our climb was done with very good visibility and would be much more exciting if the trail was not well wanded and tracks plainly visible. Have a good climb!

Ron

[ryland_moore]

I was up there last weekend and the route is in the best shape I have ever seen it. The corridor doesn't last too long before you have to traverse right over to the Winthrop. No huge crevasses to cross. The bergshrund is th only area that may have broken through. Stll will not be a big deal to cross if it has fallen through though. There are some icy sections along the traverse. We placed a screw at night, but by the time we returned on the decent, the snow had softened up enough. There were some pretty recent snows a few weeks ago, I don't know what the sun did to it last week. That is as up to date as I can give you. Good luck.

Ryland

[snowleopard_x]

How did the Russell Cliffs, to the right of the Winthrop look? If you glanced that way. From the descriptions, it would seem that the Emmons route skirting way right would make the Russell route more accessable, and safer to approach than normal.

[fredrogers]

Having done the Emmons route on 7/15-16, I'm not if its any easier to get to the base of the Russel Cliffs than any other year (first time I've done the Emmon route). You jag over towards the cliffs around a couple of monster crevasses, then up a steep slope and just right of the Columbia crest. From Looking at Gautheir's photos of the Russel routes comparing them to what I have, eeek. Looks shitty and it'd be hard to get to the base, since the Wintrop is quite broken underneath the cliffs. Send me an email and I'll send you a couple of pics so you can see for yourself.

[nerdom]

Just did the Emmons-Winthrop on July 20th. It's broken up but in good shape. Russell Cliff did not look good. Rock was falling all over that thing while we were there.