rock-ice Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 Climb: Mount Stuart-Ice Cliff Glacier Date of Climb: 4/8/2006 Trip Report: My old climbing partner Darren, a recent transplant to California, was in town for the week on business and had Friday and Saturday for some climbing. We left the gate at Bridge Creek around 9 Friday morning. The climb to the TH went quickly on the hard snow, taking only an hour and an half. The two and half miles to the Colchuck Lake junction went quickly as well. Departing the packed trail we went cross-country eventually climbing to camp in the upper Mountaineer’s Creek basin, where we carved a fatty campsite on the downhill side of a boulder. At 4 the next morning we departed camp in light snowfall. We reached the first 'difficulties' on the ice cliff at first light. We found most of the difficulties still burried and easily scurted. The snow was a little unconsolidated, which slowed our progress, but all in all not too bad. Only one spot near the top of the Ice Cliff provided any exposed necessary ice climbing. As we were climbing the weather began to deteriorate. By the time we crossed the bergschrund and began climbing the couloir, spindrift, which had collected on ledges only to pour off, was coming down in big clouds every 5 minutes or so. We stayed out of the way as best we could by staying on the right side of the couloir. About 200ft beneath the top of the couliour we running leads and I headed up to find a weakness in the menacing cornice. On my first attempt I tried to hook some rocks on the far left side which might have provided away around the tallest part of the cornice. Near vertical loose snow over hidden rocks thwarted this first go. Next I targeted a divot in the cornice which I thought I might have been able to hack through. After a little progress the wind began to whip over the cornice and into my little notch, blowing everything I knocked off back into my face. Eventually I backed down 20ft and brought up Darren, who by this time was getting a little chilly. We had hauled the shovel blade up the route for this purpose. So, whilst belayed Darren dug out a path where I had been trying to carve a path with my tools. At the notch we elected to descend in light of the poor visibility and weather. After spending a long time trying to find the Sherpa Glacier we began our descent. After dropping for some time we concluded we had dropped off a sub ridge, which though originally facing East, like the couloir atop the Sherpa, turned South rather than North. So, we backtracked and carefully found the correct descent route back to camp. The Bergschrund on the Sherpa is still buried and by staying left we avoided any holes. At camp we packed up and started out just before 5pm. The trail and road were no longer hard pack, which made the hike out sure drudgery. We reached the car at 11pm. Making for 19 hours on the move. Only have a few pic, which I'll post when I get them from Darren. Gear Notes: Didn't need screws Picketts were useful Used a few pitons in the couloir Approach Notes: Hard Pack road and trail to the Colchuck Junction, this softens later in the day making movement a real pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 How was the Sherpa? For skiing I mean. Any cornice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Nice Job! Any tracks heading to Colchuck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock-ice Posted April 13, 2006 Author Share Posted April 13, 2006 Snow was deep on Sherpa. Coming down we were plunging up to our knees. No cornice to speak of. Ross, did you ski the trail into Colchuck? On my way in I kept thinking about what a nightmare it would have been, since it was so hardpacked and trees so close to the trail. There were plenty of tracks headed towards Colchuck lake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Yeah I skied out on the trail...It's not as bad as it seems, although I have on many occasion, straddled a tree, caught a ski tip or ski pole on a tree, and once even nearly managed to fall into the creek.... good times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suckbm Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 rock-ice did you guys head up the ice cliff on the left or right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock-ice Posted April 17, 2006 Author Share Posted April 17, 2006 Left side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.