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Posted

On 9/21,Kyle Flick and I climbed the version of this route that Alan Kearney describes, and found it surprisingly stellar. Thirteen belayed pitches of superb rock, interspersed with another thousand feet or so of "simulclimbing". A better-than-perfect outing deteriorated to epic status on the descent, when both of my thirty-year-old crampons broke on the bulletproof ice of the Colchuck glacier. After several hours of step-cutting and bolard-chopping, I swallowed my pride and had Kyle lower me several pitches to the talus. Seven bloody (literally) hours from the summit to the lake! Oh-well...the front-points on those 'poons were down to less than half their original length -this seems a good enough excuse to buy new ones...

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Posted

13 pitches? I remember 7 maybe 8. Other than the first pitch, (5.8) the route is soft for the grade. It was fun and for the most part on good stone. Congrats! [big Drink]

 

*Oh, and Alan's route beta is right on.

 

[ 09-23-2002, 05:08 PM: Message edited by: slaphappy ]

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